OTR in Turkey - Day Seven - Towards Egirdir

Egirdir was one of our two stops in the way towards Cappadocia. Rather than driving 7 or more hours to reach Cappadocia from Pamukkale directly, we preferred to take the opportunity of visiting a few places alonw the way.

In this first part of the trip our stops were Lake Salda and Sagalassos, besides Egirdir itself.

Lake Salda is situated in the Yeşilova district of Burdur Province, approximately 100 kms South East from Pamukkale, about 1h 30m drive, It is a crater lake formed by volcanic activity. It is known for its unique geological features, including its high magnesium content, which contributes to the lake's striking blue color and the formation of white magnesium-rich beach sediments.

Due to its stunning turquoise waters and white sandy shores, Lake Salda is often referred to as the "Turkish Maldives".

 

Despite the warning signs, we enjoyed a quick swim in the lake. The water was nice and refreshing. I believe the main reason for the advice of not entering the lake is due to the mud that is abundant close to the shore. This is often believed to have beneficial properties with conditions such as acne, eczema, and psoriasis. And we actually saw several people applying the mud to their skin. But at the same time it creates a soft, unstable surface that can behave like quicksand.

While we were walking along the lake shore, we experimented this phenomenon first hand, sinking knee-deep in the mud.

Anyhow it was a nice stop in our trip towards Egirdir.

Along the way, we stopped for lunch at ZeVo Cafe Restourant. Very nice small restaurant, with traditional Turkish food at a very reasonable price. They also have a small shop where they sell lavender products that they grow in their fields (absolutely inexpensive). Like in many not touristic places English was hardly spoken, but Google translator helped for basic communication.

Our second stop, before reaching the destination of the day, was the ancient city of Sagalassos.

Sagalassos is situated at an altitude of 1,450 to 1,700 meters, offering a unique combination of natural beauty and historical significance. The surrounding landscape is characterized by rugged mountains and lush vegetation.

It was established around the 5th century BCE and became a prominent city in the region. It was inhabited since at least 3000 BCE, with evidence of continuous occupation through various periods, including Hellenistic, Roman, and Byzantine eras.

During the Hellenistic period, Sagalassos was part of the Kingdom of Pergamon and later the Seleucid Empire. It gained prominence due to its strategic location and fertile surroundings.

The city flourished under Roman rule, particularly from the 1st century BCE to the 3rd century CE. It was an important urban center known for its architecture, culture, and economy. The Romans enhanced the city's infrastructure, building monumental structures, aqueducts, and baths.

Sagalassos continued to thrive during the Byzantine era until it was gradually abandoned in the 7th century CE, primarily due to earthquakes and the changing political landscape.

Systematic excavations at Sagalassos began in the late 20th century, led by Belgian archaeologists. These efforts have uncovered a wealth of artifacts and provided valuable insights into the city's history and daily life.

The site's remote location has helped preserve many structures and artifacts, making it one of the best-preserved ancient cities in Turkey. It was added to the UNESCO World Heritage Tentative List in 2009.

The main highlights of Sagalassos are

• The theatre: built into a hillside, is a significant structure that could accommodate around 9,000 spectators. It offers stunning views of the surrounding landscape.
• The Roman Baths: one of the most impressive bath complex in Turkey, showcasing the city's importance and the Romans' advanced engineering skills.
• The Agora: the upper and lower agoras served as the city's main public squares, surrounded by shops, temples, and administrative buildings.
• The Nymphaeum: the Antonine Nymphaeum is a grand fountain structure dedicated to the nymphs and other deities, adorned with statues and elaborate carvings. It is the symbol of Sagalassos
• The Bouletarion: a council house that was used for meetings by the city's officials and that is an excellent example of civic architecture from the Roman period.

From Sagalassos to Egirdir, our destination for the day, there were about 80km, still 1h 15m drive.

We spent one night only at Egirdir, staying at the Gol Pension, a fantastic little hotel that we fully recommend.

OTR in Turkey - Day Six - Pamukkale and Hierapolis

Pamukkale is famous for its stunning white travertine terraces. These terraces are formed by the deposition of calcium carbonate from the hot springs that flow down the mountainside. 

The terraces are gleaming white, resembling frozen waterfalls or snow-covered hills. This striking appearance has earned Pamukkale the nickname "Cotton Castle."

Unfortunately, the terraces are not anymore what they used to be. The well known images of the terraces filled with water belong to years ago. Today only a few terraces are full. This is mainly due to three reasons:

1. Water Management: To preserve the terraces and manage the water flow, authorities control which terraces are filled. They often rotate the water flow to different sections to prevent overuse and erosion.
2. Conservation Efforts: Continuous water flow can cause erosion and damage to the delicate travertine formations. By limiting the areas that are filled, conservationists can protect and maintain the site.
3. Tourism Impact: High foot traffic from tourists can also damage the terraces. By limiting the filled terraces, authorities can control and direct tourist movement, reducing wear and tear on the natural formations.

The area was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1988, which significantly boosted preservation and protection initiatives. Here are some key points in the timeline of conservation efforts:

1. 1980s: Before Pamukkale was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the terraces were suffering from extensive damage due to unregulated tourism and local hotel operations that diverted the natural spring water for their own use.
2. 1988: Pamukkale, along with the ancient city of Hierapolis, was designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This designation brought international attention and funding for conservation efforts.
3. Early 1990s: Major steps were taken to protect and restore the site. Hotels built on the terraces were demolished, and efforts were made to redirect the water back to the natural pools. The construction of concrete channels to manage and distribute the thermal waters more effectively was initiated.
4. Mid-1990s: Access to the travertine terraces was restricted to prevent further damage. Wooden walkways were built to allow visitors to experience the site without walking directly on the delicate formations.
5. 2000s and Beyond: Continuous efforts have been made to maintain and improve the site's condition. These include regular monitoring of the water flow, ongoing maintenance of the terraces, and the implementation of sustainable tourism practices to balance visitor access with preservation needs.

Among the measures taken to protect the Cotton Field, tourists must be aware that it is strictly forbidden to wear shoes in any area of the travertines. It is still possible to enter the artificial pools closer to the town, but I would not consider swimming there a real option: too many people and too little water.

Pamukkale is normally very crowded and since there is a unique ticket for the Cotton Fields and for Hierapolis it is important to plan the visit to escape the crowd as much as possible.

The terraces have two different entrances which open at different time of the day:

1. The Town Entrance (37.91880581926912, 29.123343746206793) opens at 8.00 am. While it represents the easiest access for those who reside in Pamukkale, it does not offer a good opportunity to escape the crowds.
2. The South Gate (37.922788246371375, 29.131346229527374) which opens at 6,30. It is a 30 minutes walk uphill from the town, there is parking, so it is a very good option for those who have a rented car.

The South Gate is obviously a good option to visit the travertines without too many people around. You need to go through a gate in order to reach the parking and then you have to walk to reach the tickets booth. In this case, even if you have the museum pass, so you would not need to wait for the booth to open, you need anyhow to wait for the gate to open. At least you can watch the balloons flying over Pamukkale.

Worth mentioning that sunrise is not great (the sunset, on the contrary should be fantastic), so the only reason to wake early is to avoid the crowd.

Even if most of the pools in the area open to tourists will be empty, the travertines are an incredible view, a unique place, well worth a visit.

The whiteness is such that you might have the impression of walking on the snow.

Entering through the South Gate, you start at the top of the travertines, and you have to walk downhill, towards the town. Remember that shoes are not allowed and the descent can be slippery, but nothing that cannot be managed with a bit of caution.

Unless you are going back to the town on foot, leaving through the Town Gate, you will most likely stop close to a solitary tree that appears in the pictures of all visitors of the travertines.

This is also the area where you can find the artificial pools, that are normally filled with water. I would not advise to bath here, even if it would be possible. Normally there are too many people and when we visited there was a stray dogs pack which made everybody not feeling too comfortable with them around.

Since we were just at the start of our day, we returned uphill, to start the visit of Hierapolis.

In the meantime, the travertines had started getting full of people (and it was not even 8 am yet).

Heading westward, towards the necropolis, we viewed another area of the travertines, not accessible to the visitors, with a number of pools filled with water, around the area 37.93063389753354, 29.12076062698689. That really gave us a slight idea of how Pamukkale should have looked like in the past.

In this last picture, it is possible to see the "Basalt Wall," also known as the "Black Basalt Wall" which has a striking, undulated wall-like appearance.

It is the result of volcanic activity, where basaltic lava has cooled and solidified into distinctive columnar structures. These columns can create patterns that resemble walls due to the way the basalt fractures during the cooling process. The unique appearance of the basalt columns provides a stark contrast to the white travertine terraces nearby.

Having finished the visit to the travertines, it was time to start exploring the ancient city of Hierapolis.

Hierapolis was founded around 190 BCE by Eumenes II, the king of Pergamon. The city's name, which means "Holy City," suggests its religious significance from early on. Developing during the Hellenistic period, it came under Roman control after the death of Attalus III, the last king of Pergamon, who bequeathed his kingdom to Rome.

As part of the Roman Empire, Hierapolis became a major center for art, philosophy, and trade. The city's prosperity is evident in its impressive architecture, including baths, temples, theaters, and the extensive necropolis.

Hierapolis holds a special place in Christian history as the site where Saint Philip the Apostle was martyred. An octagonal tomb, believed to be Philip's Martyrium, was later constructed on the site.

In the early 7th Century, a series of earthquakes, coupled with invasions, led to the decline of Hierapolis. The city was gradually abandoned, to be rediscovered in the late 19th century. Excavations and restorations have since revealed much of its historical grandeur, leading to its designation as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1988, alongside Pamukkale.

Exploring Hierapolis would require minimum 2 hours, even limiting to the main landmarks only. And it would involve a lot of walking, unless you would decide to rent a golf kart which can be found at the South entrance.

We entered the city through the Frontinus Gate which served as the main entrance to the city. The gate was constructed in the late 1st century CE, during the Roman period. It is part of a larger fortification system that includes towers and walls, indicating its importance in the defense and control of access to Hierapolis. It is a triumphal arch flanked by two large towers. It features three arched openings, with the central arch being larger and more prominent than the side arches. This design was typical of Roman city gates and symbolized the might and architectural sophistication of the empire.

After passing through the Frontinus Gate we were walking on the city's main thoroughfare, known as the Colonnaded Street. 

Proceeding along Colonnaded Street, we encountered a number of landmarks:

• The Agora, that was the central public space used for commercial, political, and social activities.
• The Northern Roman Baths, a large bath complex that utilized the region's natural hot springs
• The Nymphaeum, a monumental fountain that served both a decorative and practical purpose, providing water to the city's inhabitants
• The Temple of Apollo, one of the city's major religious sites, dedicated to the god Apollo

Two of the main attractions in Hierapolis are certainly the Plutonium and the Theatre.

The Plutonium is named after Pluto (also known as Hades in Greek mythology), the god of the underworld. It was believed to be an entrance to the underworld, making it a sacred and mystical place in ancient times.

The Plutonium consists of a small cave or grotto, which emits toxic gases, primarily carbon dioxide. These gases are naturally occurring due to geological activity in the area. The concentration of carbon dioxide is so high that it can be lethal. In ancient times, animals brought near the entrance would die from the fumes, which reinforced the belief that it was a gateway to the underworld. Priests of the temple would demonstrate their divine protection by entering the cave and surviving the toxic fumes. This was possible because they likely understood that staying close to the ground, where the gas concentration was lower, could be safe for short periods.

When you reach the Plutonium, your eyes will certainly be caught by a white marble statue, representing Pluto and Cerberus, the three-headed dog that guards the entrance to the underworld, together with two snakes, also linked to the underworld. These are marble copies, made by using laser-scanning and 3D printing. Missing parts of the statues, like Pluto's head or two heads of Cerberus, were digitally recreated.

The theatre in Hierapolis is one of the most impressive and well-preserved structures in the ancient city. 

It was initially built in the 2nd century CE during the reign of Emperor Hadrian, with significant renovations and expansions occurring under Emperor Septimius Severus in the early 3rd century CE.

The theatre is designed in a typical Roman style with a semicircular cavea (seating area), orchestra, and a large stage building (scaenae frons). The seating area could accommodate approximately 12,000 to 15,000 spectators. It is divided into two main sections (ima cavea and summa cavea) by a horizontal walkway (diazoma). The seats are made of marble and are arranged in a tiered fashion, providing excellent acoustics and visibility.

The semicircular orchestra in front of the stage was used for performances and occasionally for special events. It was also paved with marble.

The stage building is elaborately decorated with columns, niches, and statues. It was originally three stories high, adorned with intricate carvings and reliefs depicting mythological scenes and figures.

The front part of the stage where actors performed. It is elevated and features a richly decorated façade.

The theatre is known for its well-preserved reliefs and sculptures. These include scenes from the life of Dionysus, the god of wine and theatre, reflecting the cultural importance of theatrical performances in Roman society.

A "special attraction" in Hierapolis is  the so called "Cleopatra Pool", so called because according to local legend, the pool was a gift from Marc Antony to Cleopatra, the Queen of Egypt. While there is no historical evidence to support this claim, the name "Cleopatra Pool" has stuck, adding to its allure and mystique.

The pool has been used since the Roman times as a spa and a place for relaxation and healing. It was a popular destination for wealthy Romans and visitors to Hierapolis who sought the health benefits of the thermal waters.

It is surrounded by and filled with ancient marble columns and ruins, which are believed to be remnants of the Roman Temple of Apollo and other nearby structures. These ruins fell into the pool during various earthquakes that struck the region.

This pool can be a good opportunity to rest and relax after a day spent visiting the travertines and Hierapolis, but you have to enjoy being cheek by jowl with other people, since it is normally very crowded.

In the town itself, there is not so much to do. It can be worth to have a walk and view some daily life scenes, but most of the fun will be at the small lake below the travertines, both because of the view and of the numerous population of ducks and geese.

Practical information

Inside the archaeological park there is no restaurant, just a couple of bars where it is possible to grab some sandwiches and drinks.

If you decide to go to the Cleopatra Pool, a separate ticket is required, at a cost of 240 lira (end of July 2024). Lockers are available at a small additional fee.

The entrance fee for the travertines and Hierapolis is 30 euros, included in the MuseumPass Türkiye

OTR in Turkey - Day Five- Towards Pamukkale

As for any OTR (at least in my view), part of the fun is making each trip to a new location an integral part of the overall travel. Reaching Pamukkale from Ephesus would require about 2 hours and 30 minutes, but by following the quickest route we would have missed the opportunity of exploring a bit more of the "ancient Greece" of Turkey.

A much longer and rewarding itinerary is o go through the archaelogical ites of Priene, Miletus, Didim and Afrodisias, before finally reaching our next stop.

Priene is about one hour drive from Ephesus and it was a fascinating visit. 

Priene is renowned for its use of the Hippodamian plan, named after the Greek urban planner Hippodamus of Miletus. This grid plan divided the city into rectangular blocks, which was a novel approach at the time and influenced many future city layouts.

The most famous monument in Priene is the Temple of Athena Polias, a beautifully preserved Ionic temple dedicated to the goddess Athena, which was designed by the architect Pythius, who is also credited with designing the Mausoleum of Halicarnassus, one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. 

It is considered one of the best examples of Ionic architecture. While the few standing columns were impressive for their size and elegance, what impressed us the most was the large quantity of column pieces scattered all around, which gave us the feeling of an unreal landscape, something from another world.

The second major attraction of the site is the well-preserved Hellenistic theater, which could seat around 5,000 people. The theater features a well-preserved stage building (skene) and a semi-circular seating arrangement (theatron), showcasing classical Greek architectural styles. The seating is divided into five wedge-shaped sections ("kerkides") by staircases. The first row of seats, known as "proedria," was reserved for VIPs, such as city officials and honored guests, and was made of marble with backrests.

The natural setting also contributed to the overall beauty of Priene, making this visit really enjoyable.

Miletus is twenty minutes further south. The main architectural landmark is The theater of Miletus, one of the largest in the ancient world, could seat up to 6500 people. It is a prime example of Greek architecture that was later expanded and modified during the Roman period.

The theater is located on the slope of a hill on the northern side of the ancient city of Miletus. This strategic placement takes advantage of the natural landscape, which was common in Greek theater design to enhance acoustics and provide dramatic views for the audience.

The theater faces the south, offering a panoramic view of the city and, in antiquity, it overlooked the harbour, creating a stunning backdrop for performances.

The theater features a semi-circular seating arrangement known as the cavea, carved into the natural hillside. This design maximizes the use of space and improves the acoustics, allowing sound to travel effectively throughout the audience.

The cavea is divided into three horizontal sections (tiers) by two diazomata (horizontal walkways). These sections are further divided into vertical wedges (cunei) by stairways, providing easy access for spectators to reach their seats.

From Miletus we headed further South to Didim. Didim (also known as Didyma) is a small town and district in Aydın Province on the western coast of Turkey, near the Aegean Sea. It is famous for its ancient ruins and is best known for the Temple of Apollo, one of the largest and most significant temples of the ancient world. 

The area known as Didim was originally called Didyma, an ancient Greek sanctuary and the site of the Temple of Apollo. Didyma was not a city but a sacred precinct, renowned for its oracle, second in importance only to the Oracle of Delphi. The word "Didyma" means "twins" in Greek, which may refer to the twin gods Apollo and Artemis, who were worshipped in the region.

The most prominent structure in Didim is the Temple of Apollo, also known as the Didymaion. The temple was originally built in the 8th century BCE and was later reconstructed in the Hellenistic period, beginning around 300 BCE, under the orders of Alexander the Great. It was designed to be an enormous and elaborately decorated structure, making it one of the largest temples in the ancient Greek world.

The Temple of Apollo at Didyma is famous for its size and architectural complexity. It was designed as a dipteral temple, meaning it had a double row of columns surrounding the inner sanctuary. The temple was never completed, but its ruins suggest that it would have been a massive structure, with dimensions of approximately 109 meters by 51 meters. 

Last stop before reaching Pamukkale was the Unesco World Heritage site of Afrodisias (Aphrodisias). Afrodisias was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2017, in recognition of its outstanding cultural and historical significance. The site is considered a key example of Greco-Roman urban planning, architecture, and sculpture.

Named after Aphrodite, the Greek goddess of love, beauty, and fertility, Aphrodisias was renowned for its sanctuary dedicated to the goddess, as well as its exquisite marble sculptures, which made it a prominent artistic and cultural center in the Greco-Roman world.

The main landmarks in Afrodisias are 

• The Temple of Aphrodite, one of the most important temples in the ancient world dedicated to the goddess of love. The original temple, constructed in the Ionic style, featured a peripteral design with columns surrounding the main building. In the 5th century CE, the temple was converted into a Christian basilica. This transformation involved altering the layout of the structure, including the removal of some columns and the addition of an apse at one end.

• The Tetrapylon, a grand, four-sided gateway that marked the entrance to the sanctuary of Aphrodite. This ornate structure is characterized by its elaborate Corinthian columns and decorative friezes, reflecting the architectural grandeur of Aphrodisias (unfortunately under restoration at the time of our visit)

Tetrapylon

• Sebasteion, a grand complex dedicated to the Roman emperors and the goddess Aphrodite. It features a series of reliefs that depict various scenes from mythology and the imperial cult.

• The Odeon, one of the best-preserved examples of such a structure in the ancient world, that was used both for musical performances, poetry readings, and other cultural events and as a  bouleuterion , meaning it was used as a meeting place for the city council (boule). This dual purpose made it an essential part of the city's civic life.

• Hadrianic Baths, named after the Roman Emperor Hadrian, are a well-preserved example of Roman bath complexes. They feature various rooms for different bathing activities, including a frigidarium (cold room) and caldarium (hot room).

• The Pool, 170-meter long. Also known as the South Agora, the area was added to the city around the mid-1st century AD (at the time of visit it was closed)

• The Theatre, a well-preserved Roman-style theatre with a capacity of about 8,000 spectators. 

• The Atrium House, one of the most significant residential structures unearthed in the ancient city. It provides a glimpse into the domestic architecture and lifestyle of the elite during the Roman period

We finally reached Pamukkale after about 400km drives, and 10-11 hours, considering the driving time and the time spent at the different sites.

Feasible, but it would definitely be worth to do it at a more relaxed pace, taking more time to enjoy the beauty that surrounds you and spending the night in Aphrodisias.

The main drawback of this solution would be having to enter Pamukkale Cotton Castle not so early in the morning the following day.


Practical Information

Visiting these four archaeological sites was a bit of a rush. It is doable, but there will be limited time to dedicate to them. Having done it, my advise would be to do it in two days, adding also Stratonikeia to the list of ancient cities to visit.

That would require one night "somewhere", before reaching Pamukkale in the following day. 

Priene is open everyday from 08:30 am until 7 pm. The cost is 4 euros and it is included in the Museum Pass.

Miletus is open everyday from 08:30 am until 7 pm. The cost is 3 euros and it is included in the Museum Pass.

Didim is open everyday from 08:30 am until 7 pm. The cost is 6 euros and it is included in the Museum Pass.

Aphrodisias  is open everyday from 08:30 am until 8 pm. The cost is 12 euros and it is included in the Museum Pass.