OTR in Turkey - Day Three - Sirince

Şirince is a picturesque village located in the hills  at about 15 minutes drive from the ancient city of Ephesus and the town of Selçuk. Known for its well-preserved 19th-century Greek architecture, Şirince is a popular destination, offering an easy escape from the summer heat.

Şirince was originally a Greek village called "Kırkınca" or "Çirkince," meaning "ugly," a name said to have been given to discourage outsiders from settling there. The name was later changed to "Şirince," meaning "pleasant" or "charming," reflecting the village’s true character.

The village is famous for its whitewashed houses with red-tiled roofs, which are set on narrow, winding streets. Many of these buildings have been restored and now function as boutique hotels, cafes, and shops, preserving the traditional architectural style.

Şirince is renowned for its fruit wines, particularly those made from peaches, strawberries, and mulberries. Wine tasting is a popular activity for visitors, with numerous local wineries offering samples of their products.  Besides for wine, the village’s shops sell olive oil, handmade soaps, and the  usual Turkish souvenirs.

Many shops in Sirince will also sell the Zultanite, a rare and precious gemstone that is primarily found in the mountainous region of southwestern Turkey, near the village. It is renowned for its unique color-changing properties and is one of the few gemstones in the world that exhibits this phenomenon.

The gemstone is mined at high altitudes in Turkey, near the region of Milas, not far from Şirince. In theory it should be a rare gemstone, therefore the quantity of zultanite jewels that are fore sale in Sirince and across Turkey (many many shops in Istanbul) should at least raise some doubts about its authenticity.

To get an idea of the costs for the true Zultanite, this is a table from the site zultanite.com (https://zultanite.com/suggested-retail-values/)

OTR in Turkey - Day Three - Selcuk

Ephesus, one of the best-preserved classical cities in the Mediterranean, is located in the charming town of Selcuk, about two hours drive from Bergama. 

In addition to Ephesus, Selçuk is home to the Temple of Artemis, the Basilica of St. John, believed to be the burial site of John the Apostle. Nearby, the Isa Bey Mosque, a stunning example of Seljuk architecture, offers a glimpse into the area's Islamic heritage.

Close to the archeological site of Ephesus, we also find the House of the Virgin Mary, a pilgrimage site believed to be where Mary spent her final years.

The Temple of Artemis was one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World and one of the most magnificent temples of the ancient world. Dedicated to Artemis, the Greek goddess of the hunt, it was known for its grandeur and architectural brilliance.

The temple was originally built in the 6th century BCE and was funded by the wealthy King Croesus of Lydia. It was designed by the architect Chersiphron and his son Metagenes, and was constructed entirely of marble, making it an extraordinary achievement for its time. The temple measured about 115 meters in length and 55 meters in width, with over 100 massive columns, each standing approximately 18 meters tall, arranged in a double row around the structure.

The Temple of Artemis was not only a religious center but also a hub of commerce and culture. It housed many priceless works of art, including statues and paintings. The temple became a major pilgrimage site, drawing visitors from across the ancient world who came to pay homage to the goddess.

Despite its grandeur, the temple faced destruction multiple times. It was first destroyed in 356 BCE by a man named Herostratus, who set it on fire to achieve fame. It was later rebuilt but suffered further damage from invasions and natural disasters. By the 5th century CE, it had fallen into ruin, and much of its marble was repurposed for other buildings, including the Hagia Sophia in Constantinople (modern-day Istanbul).

Today, only a single column and a few scattered ruins remain at the site, standing as a silent testament to the temple's former glory. 

Single standing column of the Temple of Artemis, with Isa Bey Mosque
and Selcuk Castle in the background 

The Basilica of St. John is a magnificent historical structure built in the 6th century by the Byzantine Emperor Justinian I. It was constructed over the believed burial site of John the Apostle, one of the twelve apostles of Jesus and the author of the Book of Revelation.

Once an enormous and impressive basilica, it was built in the shape of a cross, with six large domes, and modeled after the great Byzantine churches of the time, such as the Hagia Sophia. The structure was primarily made of brick and stone, with marble columns that added grandeur to the design. Though much of it is now in ruins due to earthquakes and time, the remaining walls, arches, and columns still reflect the basilica's former glory.

Gate of Persecution

The Basilica is accesses by entering through the Gate of Persecution, named after a Christian tradition that associates it with the persecution of early Christians. Over time, the gate became symbolic of the trials and tribulations faced by early Christians in the Roman Empire. It stands as a reminder of the area's rich Christian history and the significant role that Ephesus played in the spread of Christianity.

It is great to spend some time getting lost among the ruins of this once enormous Basilica, where the tomb of Saint John is located.

Baptistry

Mosaic

Mosaic and Tomb of Saint John

The Isa Bey Mosque is a beautiful and historically significant example of Seljuk architecture, built in 1375 by the architect Ali bin Müşeymeş under the patronage of Isa Bey, a leader of the Aydınid dynasty. Located near the ancient site of Ephesus and the Basilica of St. John, it is one of the oldest and most remarkable Islamic structures in the region.

The mosque's design is distinguished by its unique blend of Seljuk and Anatolian architectural styles. It features a large rectangular courtyard, surrounded by arcades, with the mosque building itself positioned on the western side. The mosque's prayer hall is notable for its asymmetrical design, with one dome slightly larger than the other, and two tall minarets (though only one remains fully intact today). The building is constructed from stone and brick, with intricate tile work and inscriptions adding to its aesthetic appeal.

The main entrance of the mosque is marked by a beautifully carved stone portal, showcasing the detailed craftsmanship of the Seljuk period. Inside, the prayer hall is spacious, with high ceilings supported by columns and arches. The mihrab, which indicates the direction of Mecca, is elegantly decorated with geometric patterns and Quranic inscriptions. 

Isa Bey Mosque from the Basilica of St. John

The House of the Virgin Mary is a sacred Christian pilgrimage site located on Mount Koressos, near the town of Selçuk in Turkey. This modest stone house is believed to be the final residence of the Virgin Mary, the mother of Jesus, who, according to tradition, was brought to this region by the Apostle John after the crucifixion of Christ.

The house itself is small and simple, consisting of a few rooms, including a chapel. It is built from stone and dates back to the 4th century, although the site is believed to have been used for religious purposes even earlier. The interior is humble, with a main room that serves as a chapel, adorned with religious icons and candles, creating a peaceful and reflective atmosphere.

The site was rediscovered in the 19th century following the visions of a German nun, Blessed Anne Catherine Emmerich, who described the location of Mary’s house in detail. Her descriptions led to the identification of the site, which was later authenticated by the Catholic Church.

Outside the house, there is a wishing wall where visitors can leave prayers and petitions on small pieces of paper or cloth, a tradition that has become popular among pilgrims of all faiths.

This site is visited by thousands of pilgrims each year, especially on August 15th, the Feast of the Assumption of Mary. It holds significant importance not only for Christians but also for Muslims, who also revere Mary as the mother of Jesus. The site is recognized by the Vatican and has been visited by several Popes, further highlighting its spiritual significance.

To be noted that within the House photography is strictly forbidden.

Queue to enter the House of the Virgin Mary

Wishing wall

The Temple of Artemis does not require any ticket

The Basilica of St. John is open everyday from 8 am to 8 pm. The ticket costs 6 euro (included in the Museum Pass)

The Isa Bey Mosque was closed for restoration at the time of our visit

The House of the Virgin Mary is open from 8 an to 6 pm (5 pm from November to February). The entrance cost is 500 Lira (NOT included in the Museum Pass)

OTR in Turkey - Day Two - Pergamon

From Assos we proceeded with out road trip moving to Bergama, where the archeological site of Pergamon is located.

Many years ago, in Berlin, I visited the Pergamon Museum, which takes it name from the reconstructed altar of Zeus which was the most extraordinary building of the ancient Pergamon. 

It was not until I started preparing for our trip to Turkey that I realized that the ancient Pergamon was not actually in Greece, but in Turkey. And that very little was left there of the famous alters and the other magnificent buildings that used to enrich the Acropolis. 

Founded by the Greeks in the 3rd century BCE, it became a major cultural and political center during the Hellenistic period. The city reached its peak under the Attalid dynasty, which ruled from 281 to 133 BCE. During this time, Pergamon became renowned for its impressive architecture, including the famous Altar of Zeus, and for its extensive library, second only to Alexandria in the ancient world.

The relevance of the library in Pergamon and the ambition to preserve Alexandria's title as the largest library in the ancient world led Egypt to boycott the library of Pergamon, no longer providing the indispensable papyrus. As a consequence, it was here that an alternative to the predominant papyrus was born, with the use of sheep, goat or calf skins instead of plant material, called parchment.

In 133 BCE, the last Attalid king bequeathed Pergamon to the Roman Republic, making it a key part of the Roman province of Asia. Under Roman rule, Pergamon continued to flourish as a center of culture, education, and medical research, with the famous physician Galen practicing there. The city also became an early center of Christianity.

Pergamon's significance declined after the 3rd century CE due to economic challenges and invasions. By the Byzantine period, the city had lost much of its former prominence. 

Of the magnificent buildings that occupied the Acropolis, most lie in ruins, even if they can still give an idea of the past grandeur.

• Temple of Athena: Only the foundations and some columns of the Temple of Athena remain today. The site is in ruins, but the layout is still visible.
• Altar of Zeus: The Altar of Zeus was excavated in the late 19th century and many of its surviving friezes and architectural elements were transported to the Pergamon Museum in Berlin. The original site in Pergamon has the altar’s foundations, but the structure itself is largely gone.
• Theatre: The theatre is relatively well-preserved and is one of the most intact structures in Pergamon. The seating area is still visible, though some parts have deteriorated over time. It remains a striking example of ancient Greek theater design.
• Library of Pergamon: The library no longer stands, and what remains are mostly the foundations. 
• Temple of Trajan (Trajaneum): The Temple of Trajan has been partially reconstructed, with several columns re-erected on the Acropolis. It remains a visually striking feature of the site, giving visitors a sense of its original scale and architectural style.

Unfortunately we had just a few hours to spend here, in the worst possible time of the day, when the heat was extreme, so we had to rush through the site, just looking at the main highlights. 

Basically the extremely steep Theatre and the Trajaneum are the two main attractions of the Acropolis and to get an idea of what Pergamon should have looked like at the height of its greatness we need to use digital reconstructions.

The cost for the Acropolis is 15 euros and the opening hours from 8,30 am until 8 pm. It is included in the Museum Pass.

OTR in Turkey - Day One - Gallipoli Peninsula, Troy and Assos

After having faced the major IT disruption on the 19th of July, luckily just resulting in a few hours delay in our flight to Istanbul and in a long wait to finally get our car at the airport, we were able to start our OTR in Turkey.

First stop the Gallipoli Peninsula (Gelibolu Yarımadası), that we reached after about 4 hours drive from Istanbul international airport (Friday evening is Friday evening in Turkey too, so the road from Istanbul was pretty congested).

While planning our Turkish itinerary, I realized that Gallipoli could have been a good first stop and it gave me the opportunity of visiting the places of "Gallipoli" a 1981 movie by the Australian director Peter Weir, about the Gallipoli campaign of WWWI. A movie about friendship and the stupidity of war, about the many young men whose lives were wasted on both sides and who are now resting together in this peninsula.

From our small pension in Eceabat, we drove through a sort of ring, along the main road (we avoided the road proposed by Google Maps that basically cuts through the peninsula), touching the main war cemeteries of the peninsula (there are tens of smaller cemeteries all across the peninsula, visiting it properly would have required much more than the half a day allowed by our schedule).

The largest mass grave on the peninsula and the main memorial to the ANZAC servicemen killed in action is Lone Pine.  Around 2,200 ANZAC members and over 4,000 Turks died in the 3-day battle. The tremendous losses at Lone Pine are even more sobering when you think about this: this was simply a diversionary tactic away from the main objectives of Suvla Bay and Chunuk Bair to the north.

Just a short distance before reaching Lone Pine, we encountered a small Turkish cemetery, at Albayrak Sırtı

and then the Respect to Mehmetçik Memorial (Mehmetçiğe Saygı Anıtı).

The monument refers to a historical event in the Gallipoli campaign, where a Turkish soldier carried an Australian serviceman to his lines to save his life.

Less than 5 minutes drive from Lone Pine, the 57th Infantry Regiment Memorial is located.

The 57th Infantry Regiment was the first to clash with the ANZAC troops and with the lead of Mustafa Kemal was able to slow them down, suffering huge casualties throughout the entire Gallipoli campaign.

After visiting the war cemeteries, we headed towards Troy, the legendary city described in Homer's Iliad.

The archeological site might not be The archaeological site may not be so eye-catching, but it is incredible to walk in the footsteps of Achilles, Odysseus, Hector and Aeneas. 

Even if we speak of Troy, we are actually in front of 9 different cities that were built across more than 3000 years of uninterrupted occupation, from 3000 B.C to 500 A.D, normally indicated as Troy I to Troy IX (Troy II is the settlement that Schliemann believed being the Homeric city).

 

Besides the excavations site, there is a small museum well worth visiting, included in the ticket. The museum is about 1 km distance from the site.

Troy is open from 8,30 a.m. until 8 p.m. every day. Ticket price in August 2024 is 27 euros (at the ticket booth, euros are not accepted. Cards or Turkish Liras only).

From Troy, we drove to our final destination for the day: Assos,

The ancient Greek city of Assos dates back the 6th century BC. Even if it is often described as a hidden gem, you will certainly not be alone exploring it: Several people will certainly congregate in its main attraction, the Temple of Athena, located at the highest point of the city, at sunset.

1

Besides the Temple, the other main attraction of the site is the Hellenistic Theatre.

Opening hours are from 8,30 a.m. until 9 p.m. The ticket cost is 12 euros (at the ticket booth, euros are not accepted. Cards or Turkish Liras only). When we visited the site, we noticed that after sunset gates were basically open for people to enter the site free of charge. Not sure if this is common practice.

There are several small hotels and pensions at Assos, more or less close to the acropolis. The old village is anyhow quite difficult to navigate by car: narrow, cobbled streets, lots of stalls selling the usual paraphernalia for tourists, people walking without paying too much attention to what is happening around them... So overall it is much better to park the car as soon as you can and reach the hotel on foot or to arrange for them to come and pick you up.  

Both Troy and Assos are included in the Museum Pass.

Francia on the road - parte seconda

 La seconda tappa del nostro viaggio, che ci avrebbe portato in Bretagna, era la cittadina di Dinan. Ma come in ogni on the road che si rispetti, gli spostamenti sono parte integrale del viaggio e permettono di scoprire gemme più o meno nascoste.

Nel nostro caso una di queste gemme è stato sicuramente l'Arazzo dell'Apocalisse, custodito nella città di Angers, capoluogo del dipartimento del Maine e Loira nella regione dei Paesi della Loira. Angers conobbe grande ricchezza in epoca medioevale, sotto la casata degli Angiò, come testimoniato dal Castello, dalla Cattedrale e soprattutto dal magnifico arazzo che nel castello è custodito.

L'arazzo, che, come indica il nome, racconta in una sorta di fumetto l'Apocalisse di San Giovanni,risale alla fine del XIV secolo e fu commissionato dal duca Luigi I d'Angiò. Occorsero circa 7 anni per la realizzazione di questo capolavoro, lungo più di 100 metri. Fu a lungo custodito nella Cattedrale di Angers, fino a quando in seguito alla Rivoluzione Francese venne fortemente danneggiato: tagliato in pezzi ed usato come coperta per i cavalli o tappeto. Solo verso la metà del XIX secolo l'arazzo venne recuperato, sia pure non integralmente, e restaurato.

   

L'arazzo è custodito nel Castello di Angers, il quale merita una visita di per sè, soprattutto per una passeggiata sui bastioni, con vista sulla città e sui giardini del castello

La cattedrale gotica è monumento nazionale, ma non ha lo stesso fascino (a mio avviso) di altre grandi cattedrali francesi.
 

Da vedere assolutamente, nei suoi pressi, la  casa di Adamo ed Eva o l'Albero della Vita, costruita alla fine del XV secolo, che rappresenta uno splendido esempio di casa a tralicci medioevale. E' così chiamata per le figure di Adamo ed Eva situate sul palo d'angolo del piano terra.

Casa di Adamo ed Eva

Da Angers ci siamo quindi diretti a Dinan, la nostra seconda tappa del viaggio, situata nel dipartimento delle Côtes-d'Armor in Bretagna. Si tratta di una ben conservata cittadina medioevale, circondata da quasi tre chilometri di bastioni, che domina il fiume Rance, ove si trova un porticciolo.

Assolutamente da non perdere a Dinan

• il centro storico, ricco di splendide case a graticcio, che ha il suo centro in Place des Merciers
• la Torre dell’Orologio, 
• una passeggiata sulle mura e comunque il panorama che si gode dalla Tour Sainte-Catherine
• Rue du Jerzual e Rue du Petit Fort. una il proseguimento dell’altra. Queste collegano il centro storico della città alta al porto sulla Rance. Entrambe acciottolate e semi pedonali sono quasi interamente fiancheggiate da case a graticcio ed antiche case in pietra, una volta residenza di artigiani ed oggi sede di gallerie d’arte, ristoranti, botteghe di artisti e negozietti per turisti. 

Panorama da Tour Sainte-Catherine

Vicinissmo a Dinan si trova il villaggio di Lehon, sviluppatosi nel IX secolo intorno all'abbazia benedettina di St. Magloire, sulle rive del Rance. Lehon è sovrastata da un'altura dove i signori di Dinan costruirono un castello nel 1034, con il duplice scopo di proteggere l'abbazia e presidiare  il guado dove l'antica strada romana attraversava il fiume.

Fiorente centro commerciale in epoca medioevale, anche grazie ai molti pellegrini che visitavano l'abbazia, la sua importanza venne meno in seguito alla costruzione del viadotto Lanvallay-Dinan nel 1852, che di fatto spostò il traffico commerciale.

In ogni caso le sue splendide costruzioni di epoca medioevale, ne fanno una meta interessante da abbinare a Dinan.