OTR in Turkey - Day Four- Tire

 After visiting the Ephesus archaeological site, we headed to the town of Tire, at about 40 km distance.

We planned our itinerary in order to be there on Tuesday, when Tire Market (Tire Pazarı) takes place. It is one of the largest and most vibrant open-air markets in Turkey and it's famous for its variety of goods, including fresh produce, textiles, handmade crafts, and local delicacies.

Tire is known for its traditional crafts, particularly felt-making, copperware, and the production of fine embroidery known as “oya”. Moreover it is still possible to find traditional saddles for donkeys. Visitors can watch artisans at work and purchase handcrafted items that reflect the town’s cultural heritage. The "Felt Art" of Tire is especially renowned and makes for unique souvenirs. The few remaining keçe (felt) makers can be found on the cobbled lane running uphill from the small Leyse Camii (1543).

Tire can be a good place to purchase original and authentic items, not to be found in purely touristic places like the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul. But the real fun is to get lost in the different alleys, observing the colourful stalls, the sellers and the buyers, possibly testing some street food and experiencing a more relaxed pace.

Turkey Museum Pass: is it worth the money?

Due to the high inflation, Turkey is not as cheap as it used to be. Touristic attractions have become particularly expensive and the government is obviously looking at tourists as cash cows.

At the same time, we are offered an opportunity of keeping the costs under control, or, at least, to be able to visit more places at the same costs that we would spend for just the must do.

Museum Passes are on sale either on line or in most of the ticket booths (at least in the main sites), that allow to enter a huge number of museums and other attractions withing a predefined period of time.

In our case, since we were spending three weeks in Turkey, two on the road and one in Istanbul, the most convenient was the MuseumPass Türkiye, which, even at the staggering costs of 165 euros, is good value for money. You can visit more than 350 museums and archaeological sites that belong to Türkiye Ministry of Culture and Tourism and enjoy your journey through history. MuseumPass Turkiye is valid for 15 days starting from your first museum visit and it allows you to enter each attarction once.

Let's just consider the main sites:

Pergamon Acropolis               15 euros

Ephesus Archaelogical Site    40 euros

Terrace Houses                       15 euros

Pamukkale/Hierapolis            30 euros

Goreme Open Air Museum    20 euros    

Zelve Open Air Museum        12 euros  

Aphrodisias                            15 euros

Galata Tower                          30 euros

Topkapi                                  42 euros*

* at the time of writing Topkapi does not appear anymore in the muze.gov site among the museums included

Just these museums would have an overall cost of 219 euros, significantly more than the cost of the pass itself. And this without considering that there are many other sites which are included in the pass.

So if you are an independent traveller, the purchase of the Museum Pass could be an option to save on the overall cost of the sites you will be visiting, provided that you make your plans in a way to fit all or most of the visits in the 15 days of the pass. 

OTR in Turkey - Day Four- Ephesus

Ephesus is normally very crowded, especially starting from late morning, when tour buses flood it with people. The best strategy is to enter when the site opens, at 8 (based on our experience, with the Museum Pass it is possible to enter even earlier, since there is no need to wait for the ticket booth to open), in order to avoid the crowds as much as possible.

Therefore we postponed the visit to the ancient city to the following day and we spent the rest of the afternoon in Sirince (see specific post).

The following morning at 8 am we were at the Lower Entrance Gate (also known as the “North Entrance” 37.9434659138961, 27.34146430726145), ready to start our exploration.

In Ephesus there are actually to entrances: the Upper Entrance Gate (also known as the “South Entrance” 37.93561208539849, 27.345445016309636) and the Lower Entrance Gate. There are basically two reasons to enter from this last one: 

• touristic buses download the people at the Upper Entrance and then wait for them at the Lower Entrance. In this way groups will start their visit from the top and they will not have to climb to visit the different attractions. As a consequence this means less people crowding the Lower Entrance
• The Library of Celsus and the Terrace Houses are closer to the Lower Entrance, just about ten minutes walk.

In this way it was possible to have these two main attractions almost for the two of us (actually not only for the two of us, but there were only about 5-6 other people, giving us plenty of possibilities of taking pictures without having to fight off the crowds of other tourists).

Library of Celsus at 8,20 am

Just a few steps away from the Library, the Terrace Houses are an unmissable attraction in Ephesus (a dedicated entrance ticket is needed, included in the Museum Pass). These houses were luxurious residential buildings that belonged to the wealthy elite of Ephesus during the Roman period, particularly between the 1st century BCE and the 7th century.

 The houses were built in a stepped, terrace-like fashion, hence the name "Terrace Houses." This multi-level design maximized the use of the hilly terrain and provided stunning views of the city. They typically had multiple stories, with living rooms, dining areas, bedrooms, kitchens, and private baths. Central courtyards, often featuring fountains or small gardens, were surrounded by colonnades and served as the focal point of each home. The interiors of the Terrace Houses are particularly famous for their exquisite mosaics and frescoes. The floors were often adorned with intricate mosaic patterns depicting scenes from mythology, nature, or geometric designs. The walls were covered with vibrant frescoes, some of which depict mythological figures, landscapes, and everyday life, offering insight into the cultural and artistic tastes of the period.

Even in this case we had the luxury of being practically alone, thus being able to better enjoy this attraction.

After one last look to the Library, which at 9,30 am started getting crowded, we started the exploration of the rest of the ancient city.

Library of Celsus at 9,30 am

Following the main road we first encountered the public Latrine. 

Located near the Library, these latrines were part of a larger bath complex and served as a communal restroom for the citizens of Ephesus. The public latrines were built in the 1st century CE and feature a large rectangular room with marble benches lining the walls on three sides. These benches had circular holes cut into them, which served as the toilet seats. Beneath the seats ran a sophisticated drainage system, including a channel of flowing water that carried away waste into the city’s sewer system. A second channel of clean water ran in front of the benches for users to cleanse themselves.

The public latrines were not just functional spaces but also social hubs where people gathered, conversed, and conducted business. The seating arrangement encouraged conversation and interaction among users, making the latrines a place of socializing as well as sanitation.

Next stop was the small Temple of Hadrian (we were there at about 10 and the city was already pretty crowded), lots of people were arriving from the Upper Gate.

The Nike Relief, located along the Curetes Street

Ephesus is open everyday. The official opening time is 8 am, but based on our experience, if you own the Museum Pass and so you do not have to buy the ticket, it is possible to enter even earlier.

The entrance cost is 40 euros. The Terrace Houses require a separate entry ticket which costs 15 euros (both included in the Museum Pass).

OTR in Turkey - Day Three - Sirince

Şirince is a picturesque village located in the hills  at about 15 minutes drive from the ancient city of Ephesus and the town of Selçuk. Known for its well-preserved 19th-century Greek architecture, Şirince is a popular destination, offering an easy escape from the summer heat.

Şirince was originally a Greek village called "Kırkınca" or "Çirkince," meaning "ugly," a name said to have been given to discourage outsiders from settling there. The name was later changed to "Şirince," meaning "pleasant" or "charming," reflecting the village’s true character.

The village is famous for its whitewashed houses with red-tiled roofs, which are set on narrow, winding streets. Many of these buildings have been restored and now function as boutique hotels, cafes, and shops, preserving the traditional architectural style.

Şirince is renowned for its fruit wines, particularly those made from peaches, strawberries, and mulberries. Wine tasting is a popular activity for visitors, with numerous local wineries offering samples of their products.  Besides for wine, the village’s shops sell olive oil, handmade soaps, and the  usual Turkish souvenirs.

Many shops in Sirince will also sell the Zultanite, a rare and precious gemstone that is primarily found in the mountainous region of southwestern Turkey, near the village. It is renowned for its unique color-changing properties and is one of the few gemstones in the world that exhibits this phenomenon.

The gemstone is mined at high altitudes in Turkey, near the region of Milas, not far from Şirince. In theory it should be a rare gemstone, therefore the quantity of zultanite jewels that are fore sale in Sirince and across Turkey (many many shops in Istanbul) should at least raise some doubts about its authenticity.

To get an idea of the costs for the true Zultanite, this is a table from the site zultanite.com (https://zultanite.com/suggested-retail-values/)

OTR in Turkey - Day Three - Selcuk

Ephesus, one of the best-preserved classical cities in the Mediterranean, is located in the charming town of Selcuk, about two hours drive from Bergama. 

In addition to Ephesus, Selçuk is home to the Temple of Artemis, the Basilica of St. John, believed to be the burial site of John the Apostle. Nearby, the Isa Bey Mosque, a stunning example of Seljuk architecture, offers a glimpse into the area's Islamic heritage.

Close to the archeological site of Ephesus, we also find the House of the Virgin Mary, a pilgrimage site believed to be where Mary spent her final years.

The Temple of Artemis was one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World and one of the most magnificent temples of the ancient world. Dedicated to Artemis, the Greek goddess of the hunt, it was known for its grandeur and architectural brilliance.

The temple was originally built in the 6th century BCE and was funded by the wealthy King Croesus of Lydia. It was designed by the architect Chersiphron and his son Metagenes, and was constructed entirely of marble, making it an extraordinary achievement for its time. The temple measured about 115 meters in length and 55 meters in width, with over 100 massive columns, each standing approximately 18 meters tall, arranged in a double row around the structure.

The Temple of Artemis was not only a religious center but also a hub of commerce and culture. It housed many priceless works of art, including statues and paintings. The temple became a major pilgrimage site, drawing visitors from across the ancient world who came to pay homage to the goddess.

Despite its grandeur, the temple faced destruction multiple times. It was first destroyed in 356 BCE by a man named Herostratus, who set it on fire to achieve fame. It was later rebuilt but suffered further damage from invasions and natural disasters. By the 5th century CE, it had fallen into ruin, and much of its marble was repurposed for other buildings, including the Hagia Sophia in Constantinople (modern-day Istanbul).

Today, only a single column and a few scattered ruins remain at the site, standing as a silent testament to the temple's former glory. 

Single standing column of the Temple of Artemis, with Isa Bey Mosque
and Selcuk Castle in the background 

The Basilica of St. John is a magnificent historical structure built in the 6th century by the Byzantine Emperor Justinian I. It was constructed over the believed burial site of John the Apostle, one of the twelve apostles of Jesus and the author of the Book of Revelation.

Once an enormous and impressive basilica, it was built in the shape of a cross, with six large domes, and modeled after the great Byzantine churches of the time, such as the Hagia Sophia. The structure was primarily made of brick and stone, with marble columns that added grandeur to the design. Though much of it is now in ruins due to earthquakes and time, the remaining walls, arches, and columns still reflect the basilica's former glory.

Gate of Persecution

The Basilica is accesses by entering through the Gate of Persecution, named after a Christian tradition that associates it with the persecution of early Christians. Over time, the gate became symbolic of the trials and tribulations faced by early Christians in the Roman Empire. It stands as a reminder of the area's rich Christian history and the significant role that Ephesus played in the spread of Christianity.

It is great to spend some time getting lost among the ruins of this once enormous Basilica, where the tomb of Saint John is located.

Baptistry

Mosaic

Mosaic and Tomb of Saint John

The Isa Bey Mosque is a beautiful and historically significant example of Seljuk architecture, built in 1375 by the architect Ali bin Müşeymeş under the patronage of Isa Bey, a leader of the Aydınid dynasty. Located near the ancient site of Ephesus and the Basilica of St. John, it is one of the oldest and most remarkable Islamic structures in the region.

The mosque's design is distinguished by its unique blend of Seljuk and Anatolian architectural styles. It features a large rectangular courtyard, surrounded by arcades, with the mosque building itself positioned on the western side. The mosque's prayer hall is notable for its asymmetrical design, with one dome slightly larger than the other, and two tall minarets (though only one remains fully intact today). The building is constructed from stone and brick, with intricate tile work and inscriptions adding to its aesthetic appeal.

The main entrance of the mosque is marked by a beautifully carved stone portal, showcasing the detailed craftsmanship of the Seljuk period. Inside, the prayer hall is spacious, with high ceilings supported by columns and arches. The mihrab, which indicates the direction of Mecca, is elegantly decorated with geometric patterns and Quranic inscriptions. 

Isa Bey Mosque from the Basilica of St. John

The House of the Virgin Mary is a sacred Christian pilgrimage site located on Mount Koressos, near the town of Selçuk in Turkey. This modest stone house is believed to be the final residence of the Virgin Mary, the mother of Jesus, who, according to tradition, was brought to this region by the Apostle John after the crucifixion of Christ.

The house itself is small and simple, consisting of a few rooms, including a chapel. It is built from stone and dates back to the 4th century, although the site is believed to have been used for religious purposes even earlier. The interior is humble, with a main room that serves as a chapel, adorned with religious icons and candles, creating a peaceful and reflective atmosphere.

The site was rediscovered in the 19th century following the visions of a German nun, Blessed Anne Catherine Emmerich, who described the location of Mary’s house in detail. Her descriptions led to the identification of the site, which was later authenticated by the Catholic Church.

Outside the house, there is a wishing wall where visitors can leave prayers and petitions on small pieces of paper or cloth, a tradition that has become popular among pilgrims of all faiths.

This site is visited by thousands of pilgrims each year, especially on August 15th, the Feast of the Assumption of Mary. It holds significant importance not only for Christians but also for Muslims, who also revere Mary as the mother of Jesus. The site is recognized by the Vatican and has been visited by several Popes, further highlighting its spiritual significance.

To be noted that within the House photography is strictly forbidden.

Queue to enter the House of the Virgin Mary

Wishing wall

The Temple of Artemis does not require any ticket

The Basilica of St. John is open everyday from 8 am to 8 pm. The ticket costs 6 euro (included in the Museum Pass)

The Isa Bey Mosque was closed for restoration at the time of our visit

The House of the Virgin Mary is open from 8 an to 6 pm (5 pm from November to February). The entrance cost is 500 Lira (NOT included in the Museum Pass)

OTR in Turkey - Day Two - Pergamon

From Assos we proceeded with out road trip moving to Bergama, where the archeological site of Pergamon is located.

Many years ago, in Berlin, I visited the Pergamon Museum, which takes it name from the reconstructed altar of Zeus which was the most extraordinary building of the ancient Pergamon. 

It was not until I started preparing for our trip to Turkey that I realized that the ancient Pergamon was not actually in Greece, but in Turkey. And that very little was left there of the famous alters and the other magnificent buildings that used to enrich the Acropolis. 

Founded by the Greeks in the 3rd century BCE, it became a major cultural and political center during the Hellenistic period. The city reached its peak under the Attalid dynasty, which ruled from 281 to 133 BCE. During this time, Pergamon became renowned for its impressive architecture, including the famous Altar of Zeus, and for its extensive library, second only to Alexandria in the ancient world.

The relevance of the library in Pergamon and the ambition to preserve Alexandria's title as the largest library in the ancient world led Egypt to boycott the library of Pergamon, no longer providing the indispensable papyrus. As a consequence, it was here that an alternative to the predominant papyrus was born, with the use of sheep, goat or calf skins instead of plant material, called parchment.

In 133 BCE, the last Attalid king bequeathed Pergamon to the Roman Republic, making it a key part of the Roman province of Asia. Under Roman rule, Pergamon continued to flourish as a center of culture, education, and medical research, with the famous physician Galen practicing there. The city also became an early center of Christianity.

Pergamon's significance declined after the 3rd century CE due to economic challenges and invasions. By the Byzantine period, the city had lost much of its former prominence. 

Of the magnificent buildings that occupied the Acropolis, most lie in ruins, even if they can still give an idea of the past grandeur.

• Temple of Athena: Only the foundations and some columns of the Temple of Athena remain today. The site is in ruins, but the layout is still visible.
• Altar of Zeus: The Altar of Zeus was excavated in the late 19th century and many of its surviving friezes and architectural elements were transported to the Pergamon Museum in Berlin. The original site in Pergamon has the altar’s foundations, but the structure itself is largely gone.
• Theatre: The theatre is relatively well-preserved and is one of the most intact structures in Pergamon. The seating area is still visible, though some parts have deteriorated over time. It remains a striking example of ancient Greek theater design.
• Library of Pergamon: The library no longer stands, and what remains are mostly the foundations. 
• Temple of Trajan (Trajaneum): The Temple of Trajan has been partially reconstructed, with several columns re-erected on the Acropolis. It remains a visually striking feature of the site, giving visitors a sense of its original scale and architectural style.

Unfortunately we had just a few hours to spend here, in the worst possible time of the day, when the heat was extreme, so we had to rush through the site, just looking at the main highlights. 

Basically the extremely steep Theatre and the Trajaneum are the two main attractions of the Acropolis and to get an idea of what Pergamon should have looked like at the height of its greatness we need to use digital reconstructions.

The cost for the Acropolis is 15 euros and the opening hours from 8,30 am until 8 pm. It is included in the Museum Pass.