OTR in Turkey - Day Four- Ephesus

Ephesus is normally very crowded, especially starting from late morning, when tour buses flood it with people. The best strategy is to enter when the site opens, at 8 (based on our experience, with the Museum Pass it is possible to enter even earlier, since there is no need to wait for the ticket booth to open), in order to avoid the crowds as much as possible.

Therefore we postponed the visit to the ancient city to the following day and we spent the rest of the afternoon in Sirince (see specific post).

The following morning at 8 am we were at the Lower Entrance Gate (also known as the “North Entrance” 37.9434659138961, 27.34146430726145), ready to start our exploration.

In Ephesus there are actually to entrances: the Upper Entrance Gate (also known as the “South Entrance” 37.93561208539849, 27.345445016309636) and the Lower Entrance Gate. There are basically two reasons to enter from this last one: 

• touristic buses download the people at the Upper Entrance and then wait for them at the Lower Entrance. In this way groups will start their visit from the top and they will not have to climb to visit the different attractions. As a consequence this means less people crowding the Lower Entrance
• The Library of Celsus and the Terrace Houses are closer to the Lower Entrance, just about ten minutes walk.

In this way it was possible to have these two main attractions almost for the two of us (actually not only for the two of us, but there were only about 5-6 other people, giving us plenty of possibilities of taking pictures without having to fight off the crowds of other tourists).

Library of Celsus at 8,20 am

Just a few steps away from the Library, the Terrace Houses are an unmissable attraction in Ephesus (a dedicated entrance ticket is needed, included in the Museum Pass). These houses were luxurious residential buildings that belonged to the wealthy elite of Ephesus during the Roman period, particularly between the 1st century BCE and the 7th century.

 The houses were built in a stepped, terrace-like fashion, hence the name "Terrace Houses." This multi-level design maximized the use of the hilly terrain and provided stunning views of the city. They typically had multiple stories, with living rooms, dining areas, bedrooms, kitchens, and private baths. Central courtyards, often featuring fountains or small gardens, were surrounded by colonnades and served as the focal point of each home. The interiors of the Terrace Houses are particularly famous for their exquisite mosaics and frescoes. The floors were often adorned with intricate mosaic patterns depicting scenes from mythology, nature, or geometric designs. The walls were covered with vibrant frescoes, some of which depict mythological figures, landscapes, and everyday life, offering insight into the cultural and artistic tastes of the period.

Even in this case we had the luxury of being practically alone, thus being able to better enjoy this attraction.

After one last look to the Library, which at 9,30 am started getting crowded, we started the exploration of the rest of the ancient city.

Library of Celsus at 9,30 am

Following the main road we first encountered the public Latrine. 

Located near the Library, these latrines were part of a larger bath complex and served as a communal restroom for the citizens of Ephesus. The public latrines were built in the 1st century CE and feature a large rectangular room with marble benches lining the walls on three sides. These benches had circular holes cut into them, which served as the toilet seats. Beneath the seats ran a sophisticated drainage system, including a channel of flowing water that carried away waste into the city’s sewer system. A second channel of clean water ran in front of the benches for users to cleanse themselves.

The public latrines were not just functional spaces but also social hubs where people gathered, conversed, and conducted business. The seating arrangement encouraged conversation and interaction among users, making the latrines a place of socializing as well as sanitation.

Next stop was the small Temple of Hadrian (we were there at about 10 and the city was already pretty crowded), lots of people were arriving from the Upper Gate.

The Nike Relief, located along the Curetes Street

Ephesus is open everyday. The official opening time is 8 am, but based on our experience, if you own the Museum Pass and so you do not have to buy the ticket, it is possible to enter even earlier.

The entrance cost is 40 euros. The Terrace Houses require a separate entry ticket which costs 15 euros (both included in the Museum Pass).

OTR in Turkey - Day Three - Sirince

Şirince is a picturesque village located in the hills  at about 15 minutes drive from the ancient city of Ephesus and the town of Selçuk. Known for its well-preserved 19th-century Greek architecture, Şirince is a popular destination, offering an easy escape from the summer heat.

Şirince was originally a Greek village called "Kırkınca" or "Çirkince," meaning "ugly," a name said to have been given to discourage outsiders from settling there. The name was later changed to "Şirince," meaning "pleasant" or "charming," reflecting the village’s true character.

The village is famous for its whitewashed houses with red-tiled roofs, which are set on narrow, winding streets. Many of these buildings have been restored and now function as boutique hotels, cafes, and shops, preserving the traditional architectural style.

Şirince is renowned for its fruit wines, particularly those made from peaches, strawberries, and mulberries. Wine tasting is a popular activity for visitors, with numerous local wineries offering samples of their products.  Besides for wine, the village’s shops sell olive oil, handmade soaps, and the  usual Turkish souvenirs.

Many shops in Sirince will also sell the Zultanite, a rare and precious gemstone that is primarily found in the mountainous region of southwestern Turkey, near the village. It is renowned for its unique color-changing properties and is one of the few gemstones in the world that exhibits this phenomenon.

The gemstone is mined at high altitudes in Turkey, near the region of Milas, not far from Şirince. In theory it should be a rare gemstone, therefore the quantity of zultanite jewels that are fore sale in Sirince and across Turkey (many many shops in Istanbul) should at least raise some doubts about its authenticity.

To get an idea of the costs for the true Zultanite, this is a table from the site zultanite.com (https://zultanite.com/suggested-retail-values/)

OTR in Turkey - Day Three - Selcuk

Ephesus, one of the best-preserved classical cities in the Mediterranean, is located in the charming town of Selcuk, about two hours drive from Bergama. 

In addition to Ephesus, Selçuk is home to the Temple of Artemis, the Basilica of St. John, believed to be the burial site of John the Apostle. Nearby, the Isa Bey Mosque, a stunning example of Seljuk architecture, offers a glimpse into the area's Islamic heritage.

Close to the archeological site of Ephesus, we also find the House of the Virgin Mary, a pilgrimage site believed to be where Mary spent her final years.

The Temple of Artemis was one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World and one of the most magnificent temples of the ancient world. Dedicated to Artemis, the Greek goddess of the hunt, it was known for its grandeur and architectural brilliance.

The temple was originally built in the 6th century BCE and was funded by the wealthy King Croesus of Lydia. It was designed by the architect Chersiphron and his son Metagenes, and was constructed entirely of marble, making it an extraordinary achievement for its time. The temple measured about 115 meters in length and 55 meters in width, with over 100 massive columns, each standing approximately 18 meters tall, arranged in a double row around the structure.

The Temple of Artemis was not only a religious center but also a hub of commerce and culture. It housed many priceless works of art, including statues and paintings. The temple became a major pilgrimage site, drawing visitors from across the ancient world who came to pay homage to the goddess.

Despite its grandeur, the temple faced destruction multiple times. It was first destroyed in 356 BCE by a man named Herostratus, who set it on fire to achieve fame. It was later rebuilt but suffered further damage from invasions and natural disasters. By the 5th century CE, it had fallen into ruin, and much of its marble was repurposed for other buildings, including the Hagia Sophia in Constantinople (modern-day Istanbul).

Today, only a single column and a few scattered ruins remain at the site, standing as a silent testament to the temple's former glory. 

Single standing column of the Temple of Artemis, with Isa Bey Mosque
and Selcuk Castle in the background 

The Basilica of St. John is a magnificent historical structure built in the 6th century by the Byzantine Emperor Justinian I. It was constructed over the believed burial site of John the Apostle, one of the twelve apostles of Jesus and the author of the Book of Revelation.

Once an enormous and impressive basilica, it was built in the shape of a cross, with six large domes, and modeled after the great Byzantine churches of the time, such as the Hagia Sophia. The structure was primarily made of brick and stone, with marble columns that added grandeur to the design. Though much of it is now in ruins due to earthquakes and time, the remaining walls, arches, and columns still reflect the basilica's former glory.

Gate of Persecution

The Basilica is accesses by entering through the Gate of Persecution, named after a Christian tradition that associates it with the persecution of early Christians. Over time, the gate became symbolic of the trials and tribulations faced by early Christians in the Roman Empire. It stands as a reminder of the area's rich Christian history and the significant role that Ephesus played in the spread of Christianity.

It is great to spend some time getting lost among the ruins of this once enormous Basilica, where the tomb of Saint John is located.

Baptistry

Mosaic

Mosaic and Tomb of Saint John

The Isa Bey Mosque is a beautiful and historically significant example of Seljuk architecture, built in 1375 by the architect Ali bin Müşeymeş under the patronage of Isa Bey, a leader of the Aydınid dynasty. Located near the ancient site of Ephesus and the Basilica of St. John, it is one of the oldest and most remarkable Islamic structures in the region.

The mosque's design is distinguished by its unique blend of Seljuk and Anatolian architectural styles. It features a large rectangular courtyard, surrounded by arcades, with the mosque building itself positioned on the western side. The mosque's prayer hall is notable for its asymmetrical design, with one dome slightly larger than the other, and two tall minarets (though only one remains fully intact today). The building is constructed from stone and brick, with intricate tile work and inscriptions adding to its aesthetic appeal.

The main entrance of the mosque is marked by a beautifully carved stone portal, showcasing the detailed craftsmanship of the Seljuk period. Inside, the prayer hall is spacious, with high ceilings supported by columns and arches. The mihrab, which indicates the direction of Mecca, is elegantly decorated with geometric patterns and Quranic inscriptions. 

Isa Bey Mosque from the Basilica of St. John

The House of the Virgin Mary is a sacred Christian pilgrimage site located on Mount Koressos, near the town of Selçuk in Turkey. This modest stone house is believed to be the final residence of the Virgin Mary, the mother of Jesus, who, according to tradition, was brought to this region by the Apostle John after the crucifixion of Christ.

The house itself is small and simple, consisting of a few rooms, including a chapel. It is built from stone and dates back to the 4th century, although the site is believed to have been used for religious purposes even earlier. The interior is humble, with a main room that serves as a chapel, adorned with religious icons and candles, creating a peaceful and reflective atmosphere.

The site was rediscovered in the 19th century following the visions of a German nun, Blessed Anne Catherine Emmerich, who described the location of Mary’s house in detail. Her descriptions led to the identification of the site, which was later authenticated by the Catholic Church.

Outside the house, there is a wishing wall where visitors can leave prayers and petitions on small pieces of paper or cloth, a tradition that has become popular among pilgrims of all faiths.

This site is visited by thousands of pilgrims each year, especially on August 15th, the Feast of the Assumption of Mary. It holds significant importance not only for Christians but also for Muslims, who also revere Mary as the mother of Jesus. The site is recognized by the Vatican and has been visited by several Popes, further highlighting its spiritual significance.

To be noted that within the House photography is strictly forbidden.

Queue to enter the House of the Virgin Mary

Wishing wall

The Temple of Artemis does not require any ticket

The Basilica of St. John is open everyday from 8 am to 8 pm. The ticket costs 6 euro (included in the Museum Pass)

The Isa Bey Mosque was closed for restoration at the time of our visit

The House of the Virgin Mary is open from 8 an to 6 pm (5 pm from November to February). The entrance cost is 500 Lira (NOT included in the Museum Pass)

OTR in Turkey - Day Two - Pergamon

From Assos we proceeded with out road trip moving to Bergama, where the archeological site of Pergamon is located.

Many years ago, in Berlin, I visited the Pergamon Museum, which takes it name from the reconstructed altar of Zeus which was the most extraordinary building of the ancient Pergamon. 

It was not until I started preparing for our trip to Turkey that I realized that the ancient Pergamon was not actually in Greece, but in Turkey. And that very little was left there of the famous alters and the other magnificent buildings that used to enrich the Acropolis. 

Founded by the Greeks in the 3rd century BCE, it became a major cultural and political center during the Hellenistic period. The city reached its peak under the Attalid dynasty, which ruled from 281 to 133 BCE. During this time, Pergamon became renowned for its impressive architecture, including the famous Altar of Zeus, and for its extensive library, second only to Alexandria in the ancient world.

The relevance of the library in Pergamon and the ambition to preserve Alexandria's title as the largest library in the ancient world led Egypt to boycott the library of Pergamon, no longer providing the indispensable papyrus. As a consequence, it was here that an alternative to the predominant papyrus was born, with the use of sheep, goat or calf skins instead of plant material, called parchment.

In 133 BCE, the last Attalid king bequeathed Pergamon to the Roman Republic, making it a key part of the Roman province of Asia. Under Roman rule, Pergamon continued to flourish as a center of culture, education, and medical research, with the famous physician Galen practicing there. The city also became an early center of Christianity.

Pergamon's significance declined after the 3rd century CE due to economic challenges and invasions. By the Byzantine period, the city had lost much of its former prominence. 

Of the magnificent buildings that occupied the Acropolis, most lie in ruins, even if they can still give an idea of the past grandeur.

• Temple of Athena: Only the foundations and some columns of the Temple of Athena remain today. The site is in ruins, but the layout is still visible.
• Altar of Zeus: The Altar of Zeus was excavated in the late 19th century and many of its surviving friezes and architectural elements were transported to the Pergamon Museum in Berlin. The original site in Pergamon has the altar’s foundations, but the structure itself is largely gone.
• Theatre: The theatre is relatively well-preserved and is one of the most intact structures in Pergamon. The seating area is still visible, though some parts have deteriorated over time. It remains a striking example of ancient Greek theater design.
• Library of Pergamon: The library no longer stands, and what remains are mostly the foundations. 
• Temple of Trajan (Trajaneum): The Temple of Trajan has been partially reconstructed, with several columns re-erected on the Acropolis. It remains a visually striking feature of the site, giving visitors a sense of its original scale and architectural style.

Unfortunately we had just a few hours to spend here, in the worst possible time of the day, when the heat was extreme, so we had to rush through the site, just looking at the main highlights. 

Basically the extremely steep Theatre and the Trajaneum are the two main attractions of the Acropolis and to get an idea of what Pergamon should have looked like at the height of its greatness we need to use digital reconstructions.

The cost for the Acropolis is 15 euros and the opening hours from 8,30 am until 8 pm. It is included in the Museum Pass.

OTR in Turkey - Day One - Gallipoli Peninsula, Troy and Assos

After having faced the major IT disruption on the 19th of July, luckily just resulting in a few hours delay in our flight to Istanbul and in a long wait to finally get our car at the airport, we were able to start our OTR in Turkey.

First stop the Gallipoli Peninsula (Gelibolu Yarımadası), that we reached after about 4 hours drive from Istanbul international airport (Friday evening is Friday evening in Turkey too, so the road from Istanbul was pretty congested).

While planning our Turkish itinerary, I realized that Gallipoli could have been a good first stop and it gave me the opportunity of visiting the places of "Gallipoli" a 1981 movie by the Australian director Peter Weir, about the Gallipoli campaign of WWWI. A movie about friendship and the stupidity of war, about the many young men whose lives were wasted on both sides and who are now resting together in this peninsula.

From our small pension in Eceabat, we drove through a sort of ring, along the main road (we avoided the road proposed by Google Maps that basically cuts through the peninsula), touching the main war cemeteries of the peninsula (there are tens of smaller cemeteries all across the peninsula, visiting it properly would have required much more than the half a day allowed by our schedule).

The largest mass grave on the peninsula and the main memorial to the ANZAC servicemen killed in action is Lone Pine.  Around 2,200 ANZAC members and over 4,000 Turks died in the 3-day battle. The tremendous losses at Lone Pine are even more sobering when you think about this: this was simply a diversionary tactic away from the main objectives of Suvla Bay and Chunuk Bair to the north.

Just a short distance before reaching Lone Pine, we encountered a small Turkish cemetery, at Albayrak Sırtı

and then the Respect to Mehmetçik Memorial (Mehmetçiğe Saygı Anıtı).

The monument refers to a historical event in the Gallipoli campaign, where a Turkish soldier carried an Australian serviceman to his lines to save his life.

Less than 5 minutes drive from Lone Pine, the 57th Infantry Regiment Memorial is located.

The 57th Infantry Regiment was the first to clash with the ANZAC troops and with the lead of Mustafa Kemal was able to slow them down, suffering huge casualties throughout the entire Gallipoli campaign.

After visiting the war cemeteries, we headed towards Troy, the legendary city described in Homer's Iliad.

The archeological site might not be The archaeological site may not be so eye-catching, but it is incredible to walk in the footsteps of Achilles, Odysseus, Hector and Aeneas. 

Even if we speak of Troy, we are actually in front of 9 different cities that were built across more than 3000 years of uninterrupted occupation, from 3000 B.C to 500 A.D, normally indicated as Troy I to Troy IX (Troy II is the settlement that Schliemann believed being the Homeric city).

 

Besides the excavations site, there is a small museum well worth visiting, included in the ticket. The museum is about 1 km distance from the site.

Troy is open from 8,30 a.m. until 8 p.m. every day. Ticket price in August 2024 is 27 euros (at the ticket booth, euros are not accepted. Cards or Turkish Liras only).

From Troy, we drove to our final destination for the day: Assos,

The ancient Greek city of Assos dates back the 6th century BC. Even if it is often described as a hidden gem, you will certainly not be alone exploring it: Several people will certainly congregate in its main attraction, the Temple of Athena, located at the highest point of the city, at sunset.

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Besides the Temple, the other main attraction of the site is the Hellenistic Theatre.

Opening hours are from 8,30 a.m. until 9 p.m. The ticket cost is 12 euros (at the ticket booth, euros are not accepted. Cards or Turkish Liras only). When we visited the site, we noticed that after sunset gates were basically open for people to enter the site free of charge. Not sure if this is common practice.

There are several small hotels and pensions at Assos, more or less close to the acropolis. The old village is anyhow quite difficult to navigate by car: narrow, cobbled streets, lots of stalls selling the usual paraphernalia for tourists, people walking without paying too much attention to what is happening around them... So overall it is much better to park the car as soon as you can and reach the hotel on foot or to arrange for them to come and pick you up.  

Both Troy and Assos are included in the Museum Pass.