Egirdir is one of the few regrets of this trip. We had planned only one night of passage, while in reality the region of Isparta and Lake Egirdir would deserve a couple of days to explore it calmly. In particular, a good period to visit is late May or early June, during the annual Rose Festival, celebrating the region’s rose oil production.
But the trip to Konya (where we had to be on time for the Sema at the Mevlana Cultural Centre at 7 pm) just allowed us a quick visit to the two islands in the lake, which are connected to the shore with a causeway: Can Ada the smaller of the two islands and is mostly known for its serene environment and natural beauty, and Yeşil Ada, "Green Island," lush with greenery and offers a more developed environment compared to Can Ada. Yeşil Ada has a rich history, and some of its buildings reflect traditional Turkish architecture.
The houses are typically constructed from local materials, including stone, wood, and sometimes adobe. Traditional Turkish architectural elements are prominent, including ornate wooden carvings, large windows, and overhanging eaves. The design is practical, often featuring thick walls to keep the interiors cool in the summer and warm in the winter.
Besides the two islands, Egirdir's main attractions are
- Egirdir Castle: This ancient fortress dates back to the Hellenistic period, with subsequent modifications made by the Romans, Byzantines, and Seljuks. The castle offers panoramic views of the lake and town.
- Dündar Bey Medrese: A historical school built in the 13th century during the Seljuk era. It's an excellent example of Seljuk architecture and has been well-preserved.
- Hizir Bey Mosque: Built in the 14th century, this mosque is a significant religious and historical site in Egirdir.
The trip from Egirdir to Konya would take about 2h 30m, but considering the places we wanted to visit, it would have take 2 more hours, plus the time spent at the different sites. We left Egirdir at 9 am and we were able to visit the different places having time to enjoy them.
The first stop was at Eflatun Pınar, also known as the "Spring of Plato," an ancient Hittite spring sanctuary and monument located near the town of Beyşehir.
Eflatun Pınar dates back to the Late Bronze Age, around the 13th century BCE, during the Hittite Empire. It is an important archaeological site that offers insights into Hittite religious practices and their interaction with natural elements.
The most striking feature of Eflatun Pınar is its large stone reliefs and architectural elements, which are set around the spring's pool. The reliefs depict various deities and symbolic figures associated with water and fertility. The central panel features a depiction of the Sun God flanked by two mountain gods, symbolizing the connection between celestial powers and earthly resources. Other carvings include figures of lions, bulls, and winged deities, all typical motifs in Hittite art. The monument is constructed from large basalt blocks, intricately carved with Hittite symbols and figures. The precision of the stonework reflects the advanced engineering skills of the Hittites.
Eflatun Pınar is built around a natural spring that continues to flow to this day. The spring feeds into a rectangular pool, which was likely used for ritualistic purposes, including purification rites and offerings.
Besides the spring's pool with its massive monument, another important part of the site's architectural and religious significance is the monument with three bulls. In Hittite culture, bulls were powerful symbols often associated with strength, fertility, and protection. They were frequently linked to weather gods, who were believed to control rain and storms—essential elements for agricultural societies.
Eflatun Pınar is an idyllic place, which still inspires serenity today, well worth a visit.
The second stop of the day was Eşrefoğlu Camii a significant historical and architectural landmark located in the town of Beyşehir. Eşrefoğlu Camii was constructed between 1296 and 1299 by Eşrefoğlu Süleyman Bey and is one of the best-preserved examples of medieval Anatolian Turkish architecture. One of the most remarkable features of Eşrefoğlu Camii is its extensive use of wood in its construction, particularly in the columns and roof. It is one of the largest and oldest wooden mosques in Turkey. The mosque’s interior is supported by 42 wooden columns made of cedar, each intricately carved with geometric and floral patterns. These columns support the wooden roof, which is also richly decorated.
The mihrab (prayer niche) and minbar (pulpit) are notable for their detailed tile work and wood carving. The mihrab is adorned with exquisite Seljuk-style glazed tiles, while the minbar is a masterpiece of wooden craftsmanship, featuring elaborate inlays and carvings.
I consider Eşrefoğlu Camii one of the most beautiful mosques we visited while in Turkey. And besides visiting this mosque, the town of Beyşehir is a good example of a laid back location, where the life is still traditional.
Leaving Beyşehir, we headed towards our last stop, before reaching Konya, our destination for the day.
Actually, in my planned itinerary, there would have been another stop, Gökyurt, a site forgotten by tourists and by the majority of Turks, with remains of the ancient settlement Kilistra. It is the settlement carved in rocks, which was reportedly once visited by St. Paul.
I believe it would have been a place to visit, a sort of anticipation of Cappadocia, but time was running and we still had to visit Çatalhöyük, before reaching Konya on time for the Sema.
Çatalhöyük is one of the most significant and well-preserved Neolithic archaeological sites in the world and a UNESCO World Heritage Site, recognized for its outstanding universal value in understanding human prehistory.
Çatalhöyük dates back to approximately 7500 BCE and was occupied for about 1,400 years, making it one of the oldest and largest Neolithic settlements discovered.
The houses were rectangular, made of mudbrick, and featured flat roofs. They were accessed by ladders, with openings in the roof serving as both entrance and chimney. Interior walls were often plastered and painted with elaborate murals.
Çatalhöyük is renowned for its rich artistic heritage. Many homes had vibrant wall paintings, reliefs, and sculptures depicting hunting scenes, animals, and abstract designs. The presence of numerous figurines, particularly of a female form, suggests that the inhabitants may have worshiped a mother goddess or practiced some form of fertility cult. Shrines and symbolic motifs indicate a complex spiritual life.
Unfortunately, at the time of our visit, the South Shelter was closed, so we had to limit our visit to the reconstructed houses and to the North Shelter.
It was anyhow a very interesting visit, giving us a bit of understanding of how life looked like for our ancestors about 10000 years ago.
Finished the visit to Çatalhöyük we rushed to Konya, to check in to our hotel (the Konya Dervish Otel, highly recommended) and then to headed to the Mevlana Cultural Center, on time for the Sema at 7 p.m.
On our way from the hotel to the Cultural Centre, we passed by the İstiklal Harbi Şehitleri Abidesi (Independence War Martyrs Monument).
On a wall of the museum there is this fountain
There is symbolism behind the shape of this fountain:
At the first row there is one basin, then two, in the next level there are three, then 2 again and finally one, like in the first row. It is like in the life of most of us: we begin life alone and then we get married and we are than two. Then come the children, The waterway splits again and children flow to life just like water. When the children leave, there are two streams left, like it was before they came. And one will go before the other on the path of life and the survivor will be alone again, like at the beginning of the cycle.
The Sema was a fantastic experience. The music, the dervishes' spinning movements, the lights, all created a very relaxing, almost hypnotic atmosphere.
Konya's Sema adheres to the traditional practices of the Mevlevi order. The ceremonies are conducted by trained Whirling Dervishes who follow the spiritual and cultural guidelines established by Rumi's teachings. While there may be variations in presentation for tourists, the essence and spiritual significance of the Sema remain intact. The center is dedicated to preserving the integrity of these practices, making it a respected location for experiencing this unique aspect of Sufi culture.
The Sema ceremony consists of seven distinct parts, each representing the Dervishes' profound love for God, humanity, and all of creation:
Natt-i Şerif
This segment involves praising God, the Creator, along with the Prophet Muhammad and other prophets like Moses and Jesus.
Kudum
The sound of a small kettledrum is used to signify God's command that brought the universe into existence with the word "Be!"
Ney
The hauntingly beautiful notes of the ney, a traditional reed flute, symbolize the breath of life being infused into all living beings.
Greeting
The Dervishes exchange greetings three times, which represents the acknowledgment of the soul connecting with its inner essence.
Whirling
As the Dervishes remove their black cloaks, they reveal white garments that are fitted at the torso and flow freely below. This act symbolizes shedding falsehoods to reveal truth. Each Dervish crosses his arms over his chest, representing belief in the Oneness of God. As they enter the whirling phase, the Dervishes extend their arms: the right hand reaches upwards to receive divine blessings, while the left hand points downward to share these blessings with the earth. They spin counter-clockwise, with their hearts serving as the center of their motion. The Dervishes whirl in four sessions, each lasting about 15 minutes, with short breaks in between. The Sheikh Efendi joins in during the final session, moving slowly.
Prayer
Prayers from the Quran are recited in honor of God.
Fatiha
The ceremony concludes with the recitation of the Fatiha, the first chapter of the Quran, dedicated to the memory of prophets, martyrs, and faithful believers.
The ceremony lasted for more than 1h. The entrance costs was 100 Turkish lira at the time of our visit.
The Sema was a great experience and the main reason we visited Konya (remember: only on Saturday at 7 p.m.). It was however a pity that we did not have time to explore the city and enjoy its several attractions.
Practical Information:
We stayed at the Konya Dervish Otel, really nice, decorated with fantastic carpets. It is possible to park outside, but the also have a small, protected parking place. Please bear in mind that shoes have to be removed at the entrance, this helps to keep the hotel perfectly clean. Good self service breakfast in the morning.
We ate dinner at the Maruf Turbeonu Lokantasi, recommended by our hotel and we were really happy of having followed their advice.
