OTR in Turkey - Day Three - Selcuk

Ephesus, one of the best-preserved classical cities in the Mediterranean, is located in the charming town of Selcuk, about two hours drive from Bergama. 

In addition to Ephesus, Selçuk is home to the Temple of Artemis, the Basilica of St. John, believed to be the burial site of John the Apostle. Nearby, the Isa Bey Mosque, a stunning example of Seljuk architecture, offers a glimpse into the area's Islamic heritage.

Close to the archeological site of Ephesus, we also find the House of the Virgin Mary, a pilgrimage site believed to be where Mary spent her final years.

The Temple of Artemis was one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World and one of the most magnificent temples of the ancient world. Dedicated to Artemis, the Greek goddess of the hunt, it was known for its grandeur and architectural brilliance.

The temple was originally built in the 6th century BCE and was funded by the wealthy King Croesus of Lydia. It was designed by the architect Chersiphron and his son Metagenes, and was constructed entirely of marble, making it an extraordinary achievement for its time. The temple measured about 115 meters in length and 55 meters in width, with over 100 massive columns, each standing approximately 18 meters tall, arranged in a double row around the structure.

The Temple of Artemis was not only a religious center but also a hub of commerce and culture. It housed many priceless works of art, including statues and paintings. The temple became a major pilgrimage site, drawing visitors from across the ancient world who came to pay homage to the goddess.

Despite its grandeur, the temple faced destruction multiple times. It was first destroyed in 356 BCE by a man named Herostratus, who set it on fire to achieve fame. It was later rebuilt but suffered further damage from invasions and natural disasters. By the 5th century CE, it had fallen into ruin, and much of its marble was repurposed for other buildings, including the Hagia Sophia in Constantinople (modern-day Istanbul).

Today, only a single column and a few scattered ruins remain at the site, standing as a silent testament to the temple's former glory. 

Single standing column of the Temple of Artemis, with Isa Bey Mosque
and Selcuk Castle in the background 

The Basilica of St. John is a magnificent historical structure built in the 6th century by the Byzantine Emperor Justinian I. It was constructed over the believed burial site of John the Apostle, one of the twelve apostles of Jesus and the author of the Book of Revelation.

Once an enormous and impressive basilica, it was built in the shape of a cross, with six large domes, and modeled after the great Byzantine churches of the time, such as the Hagia Sophia. The structure was primarily made of brick and stone, with marble columns that added grandeur to the design. Though much of it is now in ruins due to earthquakes and time, the remaining walls, arches, and columns still reflect the basilica's former glory.

Gate of Persecution

The Basilica is accesses by entering through the Gate of Persecution, named after a Christian tradition that associates it with the persecution of early Christians. Over time, the gate became symbolic of the trials and tribulations faced by early Christians in the Roman Empire. It stands as a reminder of the area's rich Christian history and the significant role that Ephesus played in the spread of Christianity.

It is great to spend some time getting lost among the ruins of this once enormous Basilica, where the tomb of Saint John is located.

Baptistry

Mosaic

Mosaic and Tomb of Saint John

The Isa Bey Mosque is a beautiful and historically significant example of Seljuk architecture, built in 1375 by the architect Ali bin Müşeymeş under the patronage of Isa Bey, a leader of the Aydınid dynasty. Located near the ancient site of Ephesus and the Basilica of St. John, it is one of the oldest and most remarkable Islamic structures in the region.

The mosque's design is distinguished by its unique blend of Seljuk and Anatolian architectural styles. It features a large rectangular courtyard, surrounded by arcades, with the mosque building itself positioned on the western side. The mosque's prayer hall is notable for its asymmetrical design, with one dome slightly larger than the other, and two tall minarets (though only one remains fully intact today). The building is constructed from stone and brick, with intricate tile work and inscriptions adding to its aesthetic appeal.

The main entrance of the mosque is marked by a beautifully carved stone portal, showcasing the detailed craftsmanship of the Seljuk period. Inside, the prayer hall is spacious, with high ceilings supported by columns and arches. The mihrab, which indicates the direction of Mecca, is elegantly decorated with geometric patterns and Quranic inscriptions. 

Isa Bey Mosque from the Basilica of St. John

The House of the Virgin Mary is a sacred Christian pilgrimage site located on Mount Koressos, near the town of Selçuk in Turkey. This modest stone house is believed to be the final residence of the Virgin Mary, the mother of Jesus, who, according to tradition, was brought to this region by the Apostle John after the crucifixion of Christ.

The house itself is small and simple, consisting of a few rooms, including a chapel. It is built from stone and dates back to the 4th century, although the site is believed to have been used for religious purposes even earlier. The interior is humble, with a main room that serves as a chapel, adorned with religious icons and candles, creating a peaceful and reflective atmosphere.

The site was rediscovered in the 19th century following the visions of a German nun, Blessed Anne Catherine Emmerich, who described the location of Mary’s house in detail. Her descriptions led to the identification of the site, which was later authenticated by the Catholic Church.

Outside the house, there is a wishing wall where visitors can leave prayers and petitions on small pieces of paper or cloth, a tradition that has become popular among pilgrims of all faiths.

This site is visited by thousands of pilgrims each year, especially on August 15th, the Feast of the Assumption of Mary. It holds significant importance not only for Christians but also for Muslims, who also revere Mary as the mother of Jesus. The site is recognized by the Vatican and has been visited by several Popes, further highlighting its spiritual significance.

To be noted that within the House photography is strictly forbidden.

Queue to enter the House of the Virgin Mary

Wishing wall

The Temple of Artemis does not require any ticket

The Basilica of St. John is open everyday from 8 am to 8 pm. The ticket costs 6 euro (included in the Museum Pass)

The Isa Bey Mosque was closed for restoration at the time of our visit

The House of the Virgin Mary is open from 8 an to 6 pm (5 pm from November to February). The entrance cost is 500 Lira (NOT included in the Museum Pass)