As for any OTR (at least in my view), part of the fun is making each trip to a new location an integral part of the overall travel. Reaching Pamukkale from Ephesus would require about 2 hours and 30 minutes, but by following the quickest route we would have missed the opportunity of exploring a bit more of the "ancient Greece" of Turkey.
A much longer and rewarding itinerary is o go through the archaelogical ites of Priene, Miletus, Didim and Afrodisias, before finally reaching our next stop.
Priene is about one hour drive from Ephesus and it was a fascinating visit.
Priene is renowned for its use of the Hippodamian plan, named after the Greek urban planner Hippodamus of Miletus. This grid plan divided the city into rectangular blocks, which was a novel approach at the time and influenced many future city layouts.
The most famous monument in Priene is the Temple of Athena Polias, a beautifully preserved Ionic temple dedicated to the goddess Athena, which was designed by the architect Pythius, who is also credited with designing the Mausoleum of Halicarnassus, one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World.
It is considered one of the best examples of Ionic architecture. While the few standing columns were impressive for their size and elegance, what impressed us the most was the large quantity of column pieces scattered all around, which gave us the feeling of an unreal landscape, something from another world.
The second major attraction of the site is the well-preserved Hellenistic theater, which could seat around 5,000 people. The theater features a well-preserved stage building (skene) and a semi-circular seating arrangement (theatron), showcasing classical Greek architectural styles. The seating is divided into five wedge-shaped sections ("kerkides") by staircases. The first row of seats, known as "proedria," was reserved for VIPs, such as city officials and honored guests, and was made of marble with backrests.
The natural setting also contributed to the overall beauty of Priene, making this visit really enjoyable.
Miletus is twenty minutes further south. The main architectural landmark is The theater of Miletus, one of the largest in the ancient world, could seat up to 6500 people. It is a prime example of Greek architecture that was later expanded and modified during the Roman period.
The theater is located on the slope of a hill on the northern side of the ancient city of Miletus. This strategic placement takes advantage of the natural landscape, which was common in Greek theater design to enhance acoustics and provide dramatic views for the audience.
The theater faces the south, offering a panoramic view of the city and, in antiquity, it overlooked the harbour, creating a stunning backdrop for performances.
The theater features a semi-circular seating arrangement known as the cavea, carved into the natural hillside. This design maximizes the use of space and improves the acoustics, allowing sound to travel effectively throughout the audience.
The cavea is divided into three horizontal sections (tiers) by two diazomata (horizontal walkways). These sections are further divided into vertical wedges (cunei) by stairways, providing easy access for spectators to reach their seats.
From Miletus we headed further South to Didim. Didim (also known as Didyma) is a small town and district in Aydın Province on the western coast of Turkey, near the Aegean Sea. It is famous for its ancient ruins and is best known for the Temple of Apollo, one of the largest and most significant temples of the ancient world.
The area known as Didim was originally called Didyma, an ancient Greek sanctuary and the site of the Temple of Apollo. Didyma was not a city but a sacred precinct, renowned for its oracle, second in importance only to the Oracle of Delphi. The word "Didyma" means "twins" in Greek, which may refer to the twin gods Apollo and Artemis, who were worshipped in the region.
The most prominent structure in Didim is the Temple of Apollo, also known as the Didymaion. The temple was originally built in the 8th century BCE and was later reconstructed in the Hellenistic period, beginning around 300 BCE, under the orders of Alexander the Great. It was designed to be an enormous and elaborately decorated structure, making it one of the largest temples in the ancient Greek world.
The Temple of Apollo at Didyma is famous for its size and architectural complexity. It was designed as a dipteral temple, meaning it had a double row of columns surrounding the inner sanctuary. The temple was never completed, but its ruins suggest that it would have been a massive structure, with dimensions of approximately 109 meters by 51 meters.
- The Temple of Aphrodite, one of the most important temples in the ancient world dedicated to the goddess of love. The original temple, constructed in the Ionic style, featured a peripteral design with columns surrounding the main building. In the 5th century CE, the temple was converted into a Christian basilica. This transformation involved altering the layout of the structure, including the removal of some columns and the addition of an apse at one end.
- The Tetrapylon, a grand, four-sided gateway that marked the entrance to the sanctuary of Aphrodite. This ornate structure is characterized by its elaborate Corinthian columns and decorative friezes, reflecting the architectural grandeur of Aphrodisias (unfortunately under restoration at the time of our visit)
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| Tetrapylon |
- Sebasteion, a grand complex dedicated to the Roman emperors and the goddess Aphrodite. It features a series of reliefs that depict various scenes from mythology and the imperial cult.
- The Odeon, one of the best-preserved examples of such a structure in the ancient world, that was used both for musical performances, poetry readings, and other cultural events and as a bouleuterion , meaning it was used as a meeting place for the city council (boule). This dual purpose made it an essential part of the city's civic life.
- Hadrianic Baths, named after the Roman Emperor Hadrian, are a well-preserved example of Roman bath complexes. They feature various rooms for different bathing activities, including a frigidarium (cold room) and caldarium (hot room).
- The Pool, 170-meter long. Also known as the South Agora, the area was added to the city around the mid-1st century AD (at the time of visit it was closed)
- The Theatre, a well-preserved Roman-style theatre with a capacity of about 8,000 spectators.
- The Atrium House, one of the most significant residential structures unearthed in the ancient city. It provides a glimpse into the domestic architecture and lifestyle of the elite during the Roman period
We finally reached Pamukkale after about 400km drives, and 10-11 hours, considering the driving time and the time spent at the different sites.
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