OTR in Turkey - Day Nine - From Konya to Cappadocia

The trip from Konya to Goreme, where we had our hotel for our stay in Cappadocia, took about 3 hours. 

Along the way we stopped at the Sultanhani Caravanserai. Sultanhani is one of the largest and best-preserved caravanserais from the Seljuk period. Built in the 13th century, it served as a rest stop for travelers and merchants along the historic Silk Road. The architecture features a grand entrance with intricate stone carvings and a large courtyard surrounded by rooms for guests. The design reflects the Seljuk architectural style, combining functionality with decorative elements. The caravanserai was not just a place to rest; it also served as a hub for trade and cultural exchange.

After visiting Sultanhani Caravanserai, we went straight to Goreme, our base for exploring Cappadocia.

Goreme is the main tourist hub, with over 100 hotels, with rooms suitable for any budget. Goreme is one of those places were you could meet people from literally any country in the world.  And it is crowded, at least in high season very crowded. Driving in the small, cobbled streets is going to exercise your patience, even more that your attention and same for parking.

I cannot say I like it. And at the same time I would not easily suggest to look for an alternative. It is certainly a good place to watch the balloons at sunrise, possibly even from your hotel room; there are plenty of travel agencies offering everything, from the bus tours, to horse rides, walks in the valleys, even camel riding. If you do not have a car there are literally hundreds of restaurant at walking distance and and there are also a few nightlife opportunities. But when we left I did not feel that I would have liked to spend a few more days: our four nights were definitely enough.

However, Cappadocia is indeed gorgeous, a unique place that well deserves a few days to at least scratch the surface of its beauty. And I would definitely recommend to have your own car, to be able to visit it at your pace, trying as much as possible to escape the crowds.

We spent three and a half days in Cappadocia and I must admit that it was not enough to visit even the main attractions at a slow pace. 

OTR in Turkey - Day Eight - Towards Konya

Egirdir is one of the few regrets of this trip. We had planned only one night of passage, while in reality the region of Isparta and Lake Egirdir would deserve a couple of days to explore it calmly. In particular, a good period to visit is late May or early June, during the annual Rose Festival, celebrating the region’s rose oil production.

But the trip to Konya (where we had to be on time for the Sema at the Mevlana Cultural Centre at 7 pm) just allowed us a quick visit to the two islands in the lake, which are connected to the shore with a causeway: Can Ada the smaller of the two islands and is mostly known for its serene environment and natural beauty, and Yeşil Ada, "Green Island," lush with greenery and offers a more developed environment compared to Can Ada. Yeşil Ada has a rich history, and some of its buildings reflect traditional Turkish architecture.

The houses are typically constructed from local materials, including stone, wood, and sometimes adobe. Traditional Turkish architectural elements are prominent, including ornate wooden carvings, large windows, and overhanging eaves. The design is practical, often featuring thick walls to keep the interiors cool in the summer and warm in the winter.

Besides the two islands, Egirdir's main attractions are

1. Egirdir Castle: This ancient fortress dates back to the Hellenistic period, with subsequent modifications made by the Romans, Byzantines, and Seljuks. The castle offers panoramic views of the lake and town.
2. Dündar Bey Medrese: A historical school built in the 13th century during the Seljuk era. It's an excellent example of Seljuk architecture and has been well-preserved.
3. Hizir Bey Mosque: Built in the 14th century, this mosque is a significant religious and historical site in Egirdir.

The trip from Egirdir to Konya would take about 2h 30m, but considering the places we wanted to visit, it would have take 2 more hours, plus the time spent at the different sites. We left Egirdir at 9 am and we were able to visit the different places having time to enjoy them.

The first stop was at Eflatun Pınar, also known as the "Spring of Plato," an ancient Hittite spring sanctuary and monument located near the town of Beyşehir.

Eflatun Pınar dates back to the Late Bronze Age, around the 13th century BCE, during the Hittite Empire. It is an important archaeological site that offers insights into Hittite religious practices and their interaction with natural elements.

The most striking feature of Eflatun Pınar is its large stone reliefs and architectural elements, which are set around the spring's pool. The reliefs depict various deities and symbolic figures associated with water and fertility. The central panel features a depiction of the Sun God flanked by two mountain gods, symbolizing the connection between celestial powers and earthly resources. Other carvings include figures of lions, bulls, and winged deities, all typical motifs in Hittite art. The monument is constructed from large basalt blocks, intricately carved with Hittite symbols and figures. The precision of the stonework reflects the advanced engineering skills of the Hittites.

Eflatun Pınar is built around a natural spring that continues to flow to this day. The spring feeds into a rectangular pool, which was likely used for ritualistic purposes, including purification rites and offerings.

Besides the spring's pool with its massive monument, another important part of the site's architectural and religious significance is the monument with three bulls. In Hittite culture, bulls were powerful symbols often associated with strength, fertility, and protection. They were frequently linked to weather gods, who were believed to control rain and storms—essential elements for agricultural societies.

Eflatun Pınar is an idyllic place, which still inspires serenity today, well worth a visit. 

The second stop of the day was Eşrefoğlu Camii a significant historical and architectural landmark located in the town of Beyşehir. Eşrefoğlu Camii was constructed between 1296 and 1299 by Eşrefoğlu Süleyman Bey and is one of the best-preserved examples of medieval Anatolian Turkish architecture. One of the most remarkable features of Eşrefoğlu Camii is its extensive use of wood in its construction, particularly in the columns and roof. It is one of the largest and oldest wooden mosques in Turkey. The mosque’s interior is supported by 42 wooden columns made of cedar, each intricately carved with geometric and floral patterns. These columns support the wooden roof, which is also richly decorated.

The mihrab (prayer niche) and minbar (pulpit) are notable for their detailed tile work and wood carving. The mihrab is adorned with exquisite Seljuk-style glazed tiles, while the minbar is a masterpiece of wooden craftsmanship, featuring elaborate inlays and carvings.

I consider Eşrefoğlu Camii one of the most beautiful mosques we visited while in Turkey. And besides visiting this mosque, the town of Beyşehir is a good example of a laid back location, where the life is still traditional.

Leaving Beyşehir, we headed towards our last stop, before reaching Konya, our destination for the day.

Actually, in my planned itinerary, there would have been another stop, Gökyurt, a site forgotten by tourists and by the majority of Turks, with remains of the ancient settlement Kilistra. It is the settlement carved in rocks, which was reportedly once visited by St. Paul. 

I believe it would have been a place to visit, a sort of anticipation of Cappadocia, but time was running and we still had to visit Çatalhöyük, before reaching Konya on time for the Sema.

Çatalhöyük is one of the most significant and well-preserved Neolithic archaeological sites in the world and a UNESCO World Heritage Site, recognized for its outstanding universal value in understanding human prehistory.

Çatalhöyük dates back to approximately 7500 BCE and was occupied for about 1,400 years, making it one of the oldest and largest Neolithic settlements discovered.

The houses were rectangular, made of mudbrick, and featured flat roofs. They were accessed by ladders, with openings in the roof serving as both entrance and chimney. Interior walls were often plastered and painted with elaborate murals.

Çatalhöyük is renowned for its rich artistic heritage. Many homes had vibrant wall paintings, reliefs, and sculptures depicting hunting scenes, animals, and abstract designs. The presence of numerous figurines, particularly of a female form, suggests that the inhabitants may have worshiped a mother goddess or practiced some form of fertility cult. Shrines and symbolic motifs indicate a complex spiritual life.

Unfortunately, at the time of our visit, the South Shelter was closed, so we had to limit our visit to the reconstructed houses and to the North Shelter.

It was anyhow a very interesting visit, giving us a bit of understanding of how life looked like for our ancestors about 10000 years ago.

Finished the visit to Çatalhöyük we rushed to Konya, to check in to our hotel (the Konya Dervish Otel, highly recommended) and then to headed to the Mevlana Cultural Center, on time for the Sema at 7 p.m.

On our way from the hotel to the Cultural Centre, we passed by the İstiklal Harbi Şehitleri Abidesi (Independence War Martyrs Monument). 

On a wall of the museum there is this fountain

There is symbolism behind the shape of this fountain:

At the first row there is one basin, then two, in the next level there are three, then 2 again and finally one, like in the first row. It is like in the life of most of us: we begin life alone and then we get married and we are than two. Then come the children, The waterway splits again and children flow to life just like water. When the children leave, there are two streams left, like it was before they came. And one will go before the other on the path of life and the survivor will be alone again, like at the beginning of the cycle.

The Sema was a fantastic experience. The music, the dervishes' spinning movements, the lights, all created a very relaxing, almost hypnotic atmosphere.

Konya's Sema adheres to the traditional practices of the Mevlevi order. The ceremonies are conducted by trained Whirling Dervishes who follow the spiritual and cultural guidelines established by Rumi's teachings. While there may be variations in presentation for tourists, the essence and spiritual significance of the Sema remain intact. The center is dedicated to preserving the integrity of these practices, making it a respected location for experiencing this unique aspect of Sufi culture.

The Sema ceremony consists of seven distinct parts, each representing the Dervishes' profound love for God, humanity, and all of creation:

Natt-i Şerif

This segment involves praising God, the Creator, along with the Prophet Muhammad and other prophets like Moses and Jesus.

Kudum

The sound of a small kettledrum is used to signify God's command that brought the universe into existence with the word "Be!"

Ney

The hauntingly beautiful notes of the ney, a traditional reed flute, symbolize the breath of life being infused into all living beings.

Greeting

The Dervishes exchange greetings three times, which represents the acknowledgment of the soul connecting with its inner essence.

Whirling

As the Dervishes remove their black cloaks, they reveal white garments that are fitted at the torso and flow freely below. This act symbolizes shedding falsehoods to reveal truth. Each Dervish crosses his arms over his chest, representing belief in the Oneness of God. As they enter the whirling phase, the Dervishes extend their arms: the right hand reaches upwards to receive divine blessings, while the left hand points downward to share these blessings with the earth. They spin counter-clockwise, with their hearts serving as the center of their motion. The Dervishes whirl in four sessions, each lasting about 15 minutes, with short breaks in between. The Sheikh Efendi joins in during the final session, moving slowly.

Prayer

Prayers from the Quran are recited in honor of God.

Fatiha

The ceremony concludes with the recitation of the Fatiha, the first chapter of the Quran, dedicated to the memory of prophets, martyrs, and faithful believers.

The ceremony lasted for more than 1h. The entrance costs was 100 Turkish lira at the time of our visit.

The Sema was a great experience and the main reason we visited Konya (remember: only on Saturday at 7 p.m.). It was however a pity that we did not have time to explore the city and enjoy its several attractions.

Practical Information:

We stayed at the Konya Dervish Otel, really nice, decorated with fantastic carpets. It is possible to park outside, but the also have a small, protected parking place. Please bear in mind that shoes have to be removed at the entrance, this helps to keep the hotel perfectly clean. Good self service breakfast in the morning.

We ate dinner at the Maruf Turbeonu Lokantasi, recommended by our hotel and we were really happy of having followed their advice.

OTR in Turkey - Day Seven - Towards Egirdir

Egirdir was one of our two stops in the way towards Cappadocia. Rather than driving 7 or more hours to reach Cappadocia from Pamukkale directly, we preferred to take the opportunity of visiting a few places alonw the way.

In this first part of the trip our stops were Lake Salda and Sagalassos, besides Egirdir itself.

Lake Salda is situated in the Yeşilova district of Burdur Province, approximately 100 kms South East from Pamukkale, about 1h 30m drive, It is a crater lake formed by volcanic activity. It is known for its unique geological features, including its high magnesium content, which contributes to the lake's striking blue color and the formation of white magnesium-rich beach sediments.

Due to its stunning turquoise waters and white sandy shores, Lake Salda is often referred to as the "Turkish Maldives".

 

Despite the warning signs, we enjoyed a quick swim in the lake. The water was nice and refreshing. I believe the main reason for the advice of not entering the lake is due to the mud that is abundant close to the shore. This is often believed to have beneficial properties with conditions such as acne, eczema, and psoriasis. And we actually saw several people applying the mud to their skin. But at the same time it creates a soft, unstable surface that can behave like quicksand.

While we were walking along the lake shore, we experimented this phenomenon first hand, sinking knee-deep in the mud.

Anyhow it was a nice stop in our trip towards Egirdir.

Along the way, we stopped for lunch at ZeVo Cafe Restourant. Very nice small restaurant, with traditional Turkish food at a very reasonable price. They also have a small shop where they sell lavender products that they grow in their fields (absolutely inexpensive). Like in many not touristic places English was hardly spoken, but Google translator helped for basic communication.

Our second stop, before reaching the destination of the day, was the ancient city of Sagalassos.

Sagalassos is situated at an altitude of 1,450 to 1,700 meters, offering a unique combination of natural beauty and historical significance. The surrounding landscape is characterized by rugged mountains and lush vegetation.

It was established around the 5th century BCE and became a prominent city in the region. It was inhabited since at least 3000 BCE, with evidence of continuous occupation through various periods, including Hellenistic, Roman, and Byzantine eras.

During the Hellenistic period, Sagalassos was part of the Kingdom of Pergamon and later the Seleucid Empire. It gained prominence due to its strategic location and fertile surroundings.

The city flourished under Roman rule, particularly from the 1st century BCE to the 3rd century CE. It was an important urban center known for its architecture, culture, and economy. The Romans enhanced the city's infrastructure, building monumental structures, aqueducts, and baths.

Sagalassos continued to thrive during the Byzantine era until it was gradually abandoned in the 7th century CE, primarily due to earthquakes and the changing political landscape.

Systematic excavations at Sagalassos began in the late 20th century, led by Belgian archaeologists. These efforts have uncovered a wealth of artifacts and provided valuable insights into the city's history and daily life.

The site's remote location has helped preserve many structures and artifacts, making it one of the best-preserved ancient cities in Turkey. It was added to the UNESCO World Heritage Tentative List in 2009.

The main highlights of Sagalassos are

• The theatre: built into a hillside, is a significant structure that could accommodate around 9,000 spectators. It offers stunning views of the surrounding landscape.
• The Roman Baths: one of the most impressive bath complex in Turkey, showcasing the city's importance and the Romans' advanced engineering skills.
• The Agora: the upper and lower agoras served as the city's main public squares, surrounded by shops, temples, and administrative buildings.
• The Nymphaeum: the Antonine Nymphaeum is a grand fountain structure dedicated to the nymphs and other deities, adorned with statues and elaborate carvings. It is the symbol of Sagalassos
• The Bouletarion: a council house that was used for meetings by the city's officials and that is an excellent example of civic architecture from the Roman period.

From Sagalassos to Egirdir, our destination for the day, there were about 80km, still 1h 15m drive.

We spent one night only at Egirdir, staying at the Gol Pension, a fantastic little hotel that we fully recommend.